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How to Retire Solo & Smart: Retirement Planning for Single Millennials, Gen-X, and Baby Boomers

hello and welcome I'm Catherine Bowie from Pure financial advisors and thank you for joining us for this webinar on navigating retirement solo with Allison alley cfp professional Allison how are you I'm great Catherine how are you I'm doing really well and thank you for doing this for us of course well let's get into navigating a solo retirement all right we're going to talk about a few things today but first and foremost frankly whether you're single or not right planning for retirement um is important right and do you know what you would do if you were trying to build your wealth alone more people than effort more people than ever are navigating getting to retirement on their own so let's talk about what that entails first things first how do you plan to spend your retirement right you have to look and say do I have enough savings is and then is your plan on track currently 56 of single workers are confident that they're going to be able to retire comfortably have you thought about when to collect your Social Security did you remember that you might have to pay for Private health care insurance right even if you reach Medicare age there's usually additional costs associated with that have you built that into your planning to get you ready for retirement um the the numbers are actually pretty pretty staggering but a single retiree could pay anywhere close to two hundred thousand dollars over three decades in retirement for health care costs right so it can be a big expense if you aren't ready for it and have you thought about your emergency funds and your estate planning right all aspects that factor into getting ready for retirement fifty percent of U.S adults are actually single I think that's probably higher than a lot of people realize so there's a lot of people out there planning for retirement by themselves and that can have an impact on your ability to put away money for retirement sixty percent of people that have never been married actually have no retirement savings at all or any savings um 35 of people that have been married at least once have no savings so they're a little bit better off right that's still a large number of people with no savings but right people that have never been married there's a larger percentage of those so it's something to really want to you really want to factor in let's talk about retirement accounts right given the inability to save it's not that surprising that a lot of people aren't on course for retirement when we look at the different Generations right we're going to break things down by Millennials Gen X and Baby Boomers and we look at the ownership rates by generation 50 of Millennials have retirement accounts a little bit better the little bit older you get 56 of Gen X currently ages 43 to 58 I should say Millennials are currently 27 to 42.

56 percent of Gen X has retirement accounts and a little bit better a little bit older Baby Boomers currently age 59 to 77 58 of baby boomers have retirement accounts so people are making a little bit more progress the older they get which is good but the earlier the better and we're going to talk about some strategies for that when we look at average account balances by ages people currently 65 plus the average retirement account balance is approximately 87 000. ages 56 to 64. it's actually a little bit better 89 000 is the average retirement account balance but then it starts to drop off right currently people aged 45 to 54 retirement account balance on average of a little over sixty one thousand people 35 to 44 current retirement account balance is only about thirty six thousand and then 25 to 34 only about fourteen thousand dollars in on average in retirement accounts and people currently age 25 and under or under 25 I should say a very minimal amount right less than less than a couple thousand dollars so lots of work to be done here for everybody and let's get into that let's start off with Millennials so again Millennials are currently age 27 to 42 and most people in this age range are still kind of in that gearing up maybe a little bit past quite starting out but building right so there's some kind of initial things you want to pay attention to first and foremost putting a budget in place right a Target is to have savings built up of at least three times your salary and maybe not at 27 but as you get through that next decade of your 30s that being the target to get to a level where your savings is at least three times salary you want a man to make sure you're managing debt and also start to focus more heavily on retirement account funding creating a budget first and foremost right so things are kind of broken out here into needs and wants right and this is looking at a 50 30 20 strategy fifty percent of your budget focusing on those needs right housing food utilities the must pay for items right so ideally you're looking at spending no more than fifty percent of your budget on those items I'm going to skip over here to the the far right hand side because this is frankly the next most important thing um 20 of your budget going towards building emergency funds starting to build towards retirement and build towards other goals that might be a home purchase or something like that right and then that leaves the remaining 30 percent for those wants clothing dining out vacations Etc and even though that we've got this 30 in the middle right that 50 and 20 those are those are your needs right that's those are the priorities if you were to allocate 30 sent to this middle section first you probably find yourself without the excess to start funding these things right so needs first wants seconds to really get you along the right path let's talk student loans right Millennials have a lot of student loan debt um 15 million Millennials have student loan debt into I should say 15 million dollars in student loan debt by Millennials the average student loan balance is about thirty three thousand dollars so getting starting to get that reined in is going to help you start to fund retirement fund goals emergency funds Etc if you have 33 000 in loans at currently five percent if you were paying two 350 a month it's going to take you 10 years to pay off that student loan debt and the interest associated with that is going to create your total payback being 42 000 if you could accelerate that somewhat and instead of making 350 a month just bump that to 418 a month it's going to do a couple of things number one it's going to cut two years off your payback it's going to take it from 10 years to eight years and the total amount is going to be forty thousand one hundred So You're Gonna Save about two thousand dollars in interest just by accelerating those student loan payments then what you could do with that money right if you're finished paying off your student loans and you could then take that same amount 418 a month and start putting it away towards retirement towards goals Etc and you were to earn an average of six percent rate of return on those dollars over 30 years that what was a student loan payment could turn into four hundred and twenty two thousand dollars right so it's really looking at the opportunity that's lost by not trying to get those debts paid down as quickly as possible because you can turn that monthly payment into a significant Nest Egg for the future in addition there is the ability from some employers a one a new rule was passed allowing employers to give a matching contribution to your 401k based on you making student loan payments so if you were putting at least two percent of your annual salary towards student loan payments employers are now allowed to make a contribution worth up to five percent of your salary towards your 401k basically the equivalent of a company matching contribution but it doesn't even require you making 401K contributions it's based on you making student loan payments so this is a great opportunity if you are in a situation where you have student loan debt if you're making your payments and your employer offers this option it would be great to take advantage of it right because you're paying down debt but still getting funding into your 401k by your employer as one of the benefits that some employees are now able to offer so it's worth looking into see if your employer plan offers this choice in addition to that just knowing the funding limits for various retirement accounts is important right if you are working and you have an employer sponsored 401K the employee contribution limit for 2023 is 22 500.

In addition if you have the cash flow to fund an IRA or a Roth IRA the current contribution limit for 2023 was bumped up this year to sixty five hundred dollars so initial ways to start getting money set aside for retirement all right let's transition into Gen X right a little bit older Gen X workers are currently age 43 to 58 and slightly higher savings targets now right so goal being that you've got your retirement savings up to at least six percent of your current excuse me six times your current salary and again maybe not at 43 but as you're transitioning through your 40s and your 50s that being the goal of getting that savings balance up to six times you're in your annual salary you also really want to be paying attention to your emergency fund right if you haven't already built that assessing where you're at compared to your ongoing expenses you want to be really trying to focus on maxing out 401K contributions as well as trying to get as much of your employer match as they're willing to give you and then taking a look at your retirement plans and making sure that you're you're utilizing options available when we talk about emergency savings right general rule of thumb is a goal of six to 12 months of your ongoing living expenses set aside in emergency funds more than half of people don't even have three months of their expenses set aside in emergency funds right 53 percent of Gen X has less than three percent excuse me three months of their expenses set aside um and that's low right you want to be able to withstand unexpected things right if there's expenses that come up or you were to get laid off or any number of other things that might cause you to need additional funds right that's the benefit of the emergency fund so that you're not in a situation where you have no choice but to tap retirement accounts that might have a penalty associated with it things like that right that's the value of the emerge of emergency funds if you aren't in a position where you've built up adequate emergency funds different ways to do it right if you just start setting a little bit aside here's kind of what that could look like in a couple of short years if you're able to put 25 a week away you could build that up to twenty six hundred dollars over two years if you're able to do a little bit more and if you if you could get fifty dollars set aside on a weekly basis right you'd have a little over five thousand dollars in just two years you could do 75 dollars a month right you could have close to eight thousand dollars in a couple of years so little by little is going to get you to where you want to go it's just chipping away at those goals in a manageable manner all right retirement account limits so the base limits are the same but now Gen X is approaching 50 if not over 50 so there's catch-up contributions involved so same base limit on a 401K of 22 500 but people 50 and over can do an additional 7 500.

So for 2023 30 000 is the maximum 401k contribution amount Roth Ira's traditional IRAs also have an additional ketchup amount involved so again that base contribution amount is 6 500 but if you're over 50 or over you can add an additional thousand with Roth IRAs and traditional IRAs there are Income limitations involved so you want to check what you're eligible for but if you're eligible and 50 and up 7 500 for 2023 is what you could put aside into a Roth or a traditional IRA in addition you really want to pay attention to your available employer match so in this example somebody's salary here is eighty thousand dollars and their employer is willing to match 50 of their 401K contributions up to six percent of their salary which means if you were to put in six percent your employer is going to match three percent and it makes sense to try to put in at least the amount into your 401k that is going to give you the maximum match that your employer is willing to give you but here's a few examples so in the top example the employee making 80 000 is putting away four percent so that's thirty two hundred dollars annually into their 401K fifty percent is two right so the employer is going to match two percent or sixteen hundred dollars so this person's getting forty eight hundred dollars a year into their 401K keep in mind if they're 50 and over they're allowed to put up to thirty thousand of personal contributions so this is obviously well below that but at least they're getting a little bit of the company match next example this person's putting away five percent so five percent of their eighty thousand dollar salary four thousand dollar annual contribution half of that that the employer is willing to match two and a half percent gives them an additional two thousand dollars so six thousand dollars a year is going into their 401k last example down here this is how they get the maximum amount right so this person's doing six percent or forty eight hundred dollars into their 401K the employer is giving their maximum allowed match of three percent so a total of seventy two hundred dollars is what this person's getting into the 401K so again the more you're willing to do the more matching you're going to get um all of these examples are still obviously well below the maximum allowable but at a minimum you want to put into your 401k what's going to get you the maximum amount that your employer is willing to give you into the account as well otherwise you're just missing out on free money so you want to get those up um if you're finding yourself off course let's go through a little bit of math all right so in this example this person's 47 years old planning to retire in 20 years at 67.

They are anticipating that in retirement they'll have fixed income of about 55 000 so that might be their social security income or some pension income or a combination of both but they're currently spending about eighty thousand dollars so 47 today want to retire in 20 years spending 80 000 today do you have to factor in inflation to see what you're going to need in retirement 20 years from now right so in this example we took that eighty thousand dollars inflated it at three percent annual inflation assumption over 20 years and that brings the spending need at age 67 to 144 000 which means if they want to be able to spend 144 000 and they're going to have fifty five thousand dollars coming in from pension or social security or whatever the shortfall is eighty nine thousand so that's your starting point right now you can figure out well what do I need to accumulate by the time I get to age 67 so that I can comfortably withdraw this shortfall from your assets that you've accumulated okay so here's a couple scenarios scenario one this person that's 47 has already accumulated about three hundred thousand dollars in their retirement accounts but they need to get to the amount that's going to be able to provide for this shortfall in order to figure out what that is you there's something called the the rule of four percent right a safe distribution rate is widely assumed to be about four percent what that means is that if you could keep what you're pulling from your own assets to four percent of those assets or less you could be fairly confident that with a globally Diversified portfolio a reasonable rate of return over time those assets will then last you 25 to 30 years so once you've calculated your shortfall you just take that number and divide it by four percent or multiply it by 25 the math is the same so in this example this person's Target would be 2.2 million dollars by the time they're age 67.

So that's what they would need to accumulate to then be able to sustain withdrawals of 89 000 when added to their fixed income would give them the amount of income they want to live on so again back to our examples the target is 2.2 scenario one this person's got three hundred thousand dollars but they've got 20 more years to get the to the 2.2 so what they would need to start saving to get there is thirty four thousand dollars a year right so that's a big number but if you break it down it might be manageable this again is assuming a a reasonable rate of return in a diversified portfolio over time scenario number two assumes that this person also 47 20 years to retirement but they've already accumulated six hundred thousand dollars towards that goal so their savings need is significantly less eight thousand dollars a year for the next 20 years to get them to that same 2.2 and this just reinforces the benefit of starting earlier right the earlier you start the more you can put away the more manageable those savings goals become over time so again pretty straightforward example but the goal is to say hey here's how old I am here's my years to retirement map out what you're spending now what's going to be coming in so that you can calculate your shortfall again multiply that by 25 or divide by four percent same thing gives you that accumulation goal and then you can back into your additional savings need on an annual basis between now and then to get you to that targeted goal all right let's yeah I was just gonna say Catherine do we have now that it was before we move on to Baby questions I'm not that I'd give you just a couple so the first one is just when you're referring to saving a percentage of your salary are you referring to gross salary or net salary after taxes and retirement contributions gross salary and then also uh you might be getting into this in the next section section but someone has asked about uh can you talk about the death of a spouse so that's why someone is uh unfortunately single now and so resulting in a change in tax brackets and you know what affects their Roth conversion strategies yeah absolutely and we will talk a little bit about it in the baby boomer section but um yeah if you are if you were married and your spouse passed away there are a bunch of things that change right like for example the tax brackets they basically get cut in half so you hit higher tax brackets at essentially half the amount of income so the sooner you can build retirement accounts especially things like tax-free Roth accounts right once you get into retirement you'll have more flexibility on where to pull income from because if you're going to have social security income and you've built you know 401K funds you're going to be paying tax on those income streams so if you could then supplement by pulling from roths which then don't continue to increase your tax situation that's just going to give you more flexibility and choice so yeah and in addition to Social Security strategies which we will talk about in the next section um you know whether you were married and are divorced or are widowed that will also have an impact on your choices when it comes to Social Security income okay we have a couple more questions but I'm going to let you go through the next section and then we'll you'll probably answer some of them okay perfect um so next Generation Baby Boomers So currently um well and here's a quick one before we get into the ages right so one thing to do and this does sort of relate to what Catherine what you were just asking about um but whether you were always single or were married and are divorced or your spouse passed away you want to make sure that you're updating various accounts right so if you have insurance policies and retirement accounts updating beneficiaries to whoever right whether it's children or other family members or friends or whatever it may be if you did if you do have a spouse that passed away that's key to make sure that something happens to you your assets go where you want them to go I've um in addition if you were married and and are now divorced removing former spouses from bank accounts again investment accounts retirement accounts Etc and then um you know closing or updating any joint accounts that were titled whether it was jointly or community property or whatever the case may have been to your individual registration in addition we don't really talk too much about Estate Planning in this today but estate planning things like You're updating your trust updating your will right should you get divorced or have a spouse pass making sure that those documents now reflect the change in your situation and your current wishes big big things to make sure you follow up on okay so baby boomers are currently age 59 to 77 and lots of these people are either very close to retirement or obviously already in retirement and so that savings goal is even higher right 10 percent 10 10 10 times your annual salary is that Target savings goal so that you and are sure that you've got the assets needed to sustain you into retirement you are going to start paying attention to Social Security strategies really paying attention to those catch-up contributions on 401ks and IRAs that we were talking about previously as well as paying attention to your overall Investment Portfolio and your asset allocation let's talk Social Security so most people's full retirement age currently is somewhere between age 66 and 67 but you can take Social Security as early as 62 or you could delay it as late as age 70.

There's trade-offs to all of this right the longer you wait to take it the more you get but the longer you go without taking your social security income and the more dependent you might be on your own assets depending on your retirement situation in this situation or in this example delaying from taking it early at 62 to 70 gives you a 77 percent increase in your benefit right so in this example this person's full retirement age is 67 and they are entitled to a thousand dollars a month of social security income if they were to start taking it at age 62 they would only get 700 a month right so that benefit gets reduced if they were to wait all the way from 67 to 70 that benefit would go from a thousand dollars to one thousand two hundred forty dollars so it's a pretty big increase and if you look at that entire eight year waiting period it's a 77 increase um so this is something that you want to factor in to that retirement planning right looking at well what other income sources do you have what's your asset level built to and when does it make the most sense for you to take social security income and it's going to be different for everybody in addition whether you were married before and are divorced or widowed there are some options here as well so Everyone's entitled to the higher of their own Social Security based on their own earnings record or 50 percent of their spouses whichever is higher that applies even if you get divorced as long as you were married at least 10 years you are at least 62 or older you're currently unmarried and your former spouse is entitled to Social Security if you have multiple ex spouses you would collect on again either your own benefit or the highest of your ex-spouses whichever of those amounts would be higher is what you'd be entitled to on the other side here if you are a Survivor so if your spouse passed away you're actually entitled to a hundred percent of their benefit if it's higher than your own benefit um but you have to either be not remarried or you remarried post age 60.

um you have to be at least 60 because survivor benefits can actually start as early as 60 whereas spousal benefits and your own benefits can't start any earlier than 62. this over here it's or it's 50 if you are disabled and you have to be entitled to your own benefits but again if they're less than your former spouse then you'd get the higher of those two benefits here's an example of Dave who's 62 and a widow so his wife passed away his spouse passed away and couple different strategies right he could start as early as 62 and just claim those survivor benefits now and in this example he would be entitled to 1237 a month the second strategy though is that he would take those survivor benefits now until age 70 and still get that same 12 37 a month but then at his age 70 he could switch to his own benefit which had the benefit of waiting those years to get that higher amount and at age 70 his own benefit would have grown to eighteen hundred dollars a month right so just by strategizing what's available to you he's increased his monthly benefits by 50 and a 35 percent increase over his lifetime just by strategizing and understanding that he's got a couple of options here right so that's important to pay attention to okay let's talk let's talk catch-up contributions we're already talking about how how people ages 50 and up can have additional contributions to their 401K plans however there's a few additional catch-ups for people even older than that and this is a new rule so that same 7 500 catch up on the 401K applies for people 50 and above and again from ages 59 58 to 59 however there's a change now an additional allowance that was put out there starting in year 2025 people ages 60 61 62 and 63 can actually make a ten thousand dollar catch-up contribution so again you've got that base level 22.5 that you can put into your 401k if you're 50 and above you can add the additional 7 500 to give you a total of 30 000 but starting in 2025 if your age is 60 to 63 that ketchup can actually be an additional ten thousand dollars so that would make your total 401K contributions for those four years as much much as thirty two thousand five hundred and then ages 64 to 70 it goes back to that 7 500.

So if you were if you if you're finding yourself behind right in your retirement plan in your accumulation goals and you get to these ages and you were able to Max Fund not only the basic amount but these catch-up contributions in all of these different age ranges right in these first couple of years that would be sixty thousand going into your 401k the next four years that would be 130 000 going into their your 401k and then these subsequent handful of years that would be an additional 210 000 going into your 401k add all that up that's getting a reasonable rate of return we're assuming six percent those contributions over that span of time would actually equate to almost six hundred and twenty thousand dollars of additional retirement account balances right so they they're basically giving people a way to kind of really jump start or accelerate kind of in these years as people are getting closer and closer to retirement to make a much larger impact on what they're able to put away towards retirement accounts all right last thing I want to talk about is making sure that you're paying attention to your asset allocation right as you're getting older as you're getting closer to needing the money from your retirement account you really want to make sure that you've built a portfolio that can withstand Market volatility it can withstand downturns a lot of people find and in fact the studies have been done in approximately 59 of baby boomers are actually over allocated to equities or stocks right and we've kind of got this little map here showing the different kind of rates of return versus risk levels when we compare various asset class right government treasuries so t-bills t-bonds Etc are going to be the lowest risk but also the lowest return and then these things just kind of Step Up corporate bonds still fairly low risk fairly low return but a little bit higher on that risk turn scale then we get into stocks right large companies mid-sized companies small size companies the risk level goes up so does the Target so does the projected returns but if you're in close to retirement in retirement right the volatility the potential for larger downturns is going to have a bigger impact on your ability to ensure that your assets are still sustainable and that you can still have the amount you need to last for your entire retirement so again it's you always want to pay attention to your asset allocation but it becomes even more important and more vital the closer you are to needing to start withdrawing from your funds right you want to ensure you've built a portfolio that can sustain those Market downturns I think Catherine's going to tell us about our free assessment but I'll also and let me know if there's any other questions at this point just had a couple that some are kind of detailed we've gotten several questions but some are very detailed so we might have to do those offline but um one is and I believe you you talked about it I just wanted to let Elaine know that um she asked if her husband and she just split up they're 64 and 58 respectively they've been married over 10 years they're both still working he's the higher income earner and will she be able to collect his social security benefits when she turns 62.

You talked about it yeah so since they were married at least 10 years once they are divorced yes she would be entitled to frankly the same as if they were still married her own benefit or 50 of his whichever one's higher right and then uh there's another one that says they're in a long-term relationship they keep their finances separate they're 38 and 37 and they have no intention of ever getting married does this change how we should each invest for retirement uh that's definitely pretty specific so I don't know how much I could really uh give on that but I mean it sort of depends right even if they're Finance if they're never gonna get married and their finances are always going to be completely separate but do they like pay for joint goals together or like it's literally every single thing separate then you were just going to want to map out your goals individually to try to Target accumulating for those goals so it kind of depends on how separate it is right or if there's joint goals that they're accumulating towards together right that would probably have an impact also and then there was an uh one other question that I think we can get there's other questions but we'll probably have to get back to them but one was saying that in their in our slides it says that uh additional savings per year when we say additional savings per year and the name of the slide was getting off course are you talking about savings or investment savings like Investments it should be clear yeah like retirement savings so whether that's in your 401k or IRA your Roth a combination retirement savings exactly okay if you have more questions please schedule your free financial assessment with one of the experienced professionals here at pure financial advisors and they'll take a deep dive into your entire Financial picture and stress test your retirement portfolio you'll not only learn how to choose a retirement distribution plan that's right for you minimize risk and maximize return legally reduce taxes now and in retirement and maximize your Social Security you'll also learn how to protect yourself against Market volatility Rising inflation and Rising health care costs remember there's no cost no obligation this is a one-on-one comprehensive Financial assessment that's tailored especially for you to get your questions answered we would just like to thank you so much for being here thank you Allison I know there's so much information to get to so it's difficult but this is our you know we try to do these every month so that we can get specific topics and if you have other topics that you'd like to hear about please let us know that as well

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Want to Simplify Your Retirement Income? Try Using a Dividend Portfolio…

One of the big challenges you will face leading into
retirement is what's called the permission to spend problem. The permission to spend problem occurs
when you've been a diligent saver and then you arrive at the point where you have to create retirement
income out of your assets. And you simply can't give yourself
permission either out of fear, anxiety or lack of knowledge to actually spend
the wealth of accumulated. In today's video,
we're going to be talking about how living off of dividend
income in retirement can help solve, or at least lubricate a portion
of that permission to spend problem. I've done a few videos recently about this permission to spend problem
and you can watch them. And there's many elements
that feed into this. But at the root,
the main reason that we see clients don't give themselves permission to spend when they've diligently saved
leading into retirement is because there's so many unanswered
questions with how we curate and craft retirement income.

See, when you are working
or if you own a business, you've had 20, 30, maybe 40 years
to gain comfort and familiarity with how your income will be crafted,
what day of the month it will hit your account,
how it will be taxed, what's going to be left over to spend.
Maybe you'll get a bonus, right? There's all these questions that
are nested that have already been answered with the situation you're familiar with,
but now you're navigating the retirement risk zone,
which is the ten years prior to retirement or the first ten years in retirement,
and you're trying to solve this problem, which is how do I give myself permission
to spend the wealth I've accumulated and how do I craft an income
out of my retirement portfolio? One of the big challenges here
that we're going to address today, and I think this is the challenge
that dividend income solves, is the predictability or the reliability
of income situation, right? So now you're crafting your
own retirement income or your planning for how to do that.

And you have what I call tons of decision
making friction. You have a checklist
of a whole bunch of things that you need answered, either
consciously or subconsciously about what's going to allow you to know
you're making the best decision for how you're crafting
your retirement income. And until you've knocked
those items off the checklist or at least improved your level of comprehension
about those different items, you're going to have significant decision
making friction, which will many cases disallow you or make it very difficult
for you to actually spend the money that may be appropriate to spend. And the last thing that you want
is to end up on your deathbed and regret having this huge pile of money,
but not having used it during the years in which you were most able to maximize
the value and the novelty and the benefit and pleasure of the wealth that
you spent so many years, of so much hard work saving.

So let's get right into this. There are really several problems
that characterize this, and I believe that dividend income
can at least help with each component. So I'm going to show this on the screen. We'll talk through this piece by piece. The first problem here
is very, very simple. So you really have two ways
of crafting income in retirement.

I mean, there's many, many ways. But at simplest form, the conventional
wisdom presents us two ways. We either have
what's called capital appreciation or pruning the principal value of
our investments, which basically you could consider that I have
a total pool of $1 million investments. I want to sell a portion
of those investments each year to create the income
I will need to live on. And then I simply have to ask myself
how much do I sell? What's the appropriate amount? Right? The second method is income, right? And that conventionally has been,
you know, through dividend portfolios or maybe buying bonds
or maybe having rental property or even a business in retirement
that kicks off a stream of income.

Now, what we're comparing
today is dividend income versus the more conventional wisdom,
which is principal reduction or selling a portion of your investments
in order to producer income. So problem number one
is up here on the screen. Let's say you start
with the million dollar portfolio. You have $1,000,000 portfolio
and now you have a set of nested decisions you need to make that could present
decision making friction and make it difficult for you to again
solve this permission to spend problem, if you've been a great saver. Let's say you have
this million dollar portfolio. Well, you have to answer a bunch of questions
before you can even decide what or when or how you're going to sell. You have to ask yourself
what's an appropriate amount of income to take from this
million dollar portfolio? You're going to produce this little,
you know, little ball of income. And you have to ask yourself, what is the absolute dollar
amount per year I'm comfortable taking? And then what is the percent
of the portfolio I'm willing to take? We're not talking about the 4% rule here.

We're not giving guidance
on any of that stuff. It's just understanding problem number one is you have
to ask yourself these questions. Problem number two, once you've addressed the question
of how much income will I take each year? Now you have to answer
a whole bunch of questions. Because on the screen, we're showing instead of just one portfolio,
that's $1 million what you really have is one pie chart
that is composed or comprised of many different investments. Maybe you follow an asset allocation,
maybe you have individual stocks, maybe it's both. It doesn't really matter. But your portfolio is not
$1 million bucket of money. It's many, many buckets of money
within that $1 million that are all have a different level of risk and different performance
characteristics and different elements that, you know, information that feed into
how each of those elements perform. Now, problem number two is once you've determined
how much you're willing to take each year and what percent of your portfolio, have to answer these questions.

What do you sell
in order to craft that income? How much of each thing do you
sell in order to craft that income? When do you sell it? What happens if you decide
to take your distributions annually? That's very different than taking your distributions quarterly
or very different than taking it monthly. And ultimately
you'll have to make decisions on your own about what frequency
you want your distributions. And that is simply another nested question
you have to answer for yourself that will undoubtedly provide
or present decision making friction and will make it difficult
for you to have permission or feel your own permission
to spend your money. So you have to answer all these questions,
and we call that problem number two, because it's not just determining
a distribution rate, it's also all the mechanics that go into
how you craft that income.

What about problem number three, which is
what if you have a one time expense, like a sudden expense? You've already decided
how much you're comfortable taking out each year for your annual
living costs or your annual spend. Well, what happens if your car dies
or you have a flood in a bathroom or something happens to your home or a kid
who needs some financial support? And what happens
if at the beginning of the year you have this million dollar
portfolio on the left here and you agreed on a 4% distribution,
which is $40,000. And now by July, middle of the year, you've taken your monthly
or quarterly distributions as planned. But all of a sudden you have a $30,000
one time expense that comes up and your portfolio has also gone down
slightly that year or it's just in the middle of the year doing,
you know, whatever choppy things it does. And now the portfolio is worth $972,000. And you need to take out this $30,000 sudden one time expense. You're going to have a ton of decision
making friction there and you're going to feel this gut
wrenching difficulty of how do I give myself permission
to spend that money? So these are the three problems that occur
when we use a principled reduction method.

Now, on the screen here,
I'm going to move to another visual here. The best way
I like to think about living off of dividend income in retirement is
it doesn't have to be all or nothing. You don't have to only live off
of dividend income or only live off of
principal reduction income. You can blend the two. But a really good analogy for how to think about dividend
income is if you have a portfolio that's only invested in stocks
that you don't get dividends from and you need to sell in order
to get access to money, it's like owning an investment home or a
investment property with no renter in it.

When you have a dividend portfolio, it's like owning an investment
property with renters in it. The comparison here is if you have an investment property
worth $1 million, you can't just sell one
corner of the house or one part of the house
in order to get access to the money. Now, with stock portfolio, you can,
but you're going to feel that same amount, that same decision making friction,
that same lack of permission to spend, because you actually have to sell
at different unpredictable values of the portfolio, especially when it comes
to one time expenses. But having a dividend portfolio
or at least partial amount of your retirement portfolio in dividend
producing investments is like owning an investment property with renters,
at least you're getting that rental income payment.

Right. And that can be very, very helpful in lubricating and relieving
some of that decision making friction. So couple elements
to kind of bring this to a close. The main objective of the dividend
income is not about maximizing or squeezing out every single dollar
or drop of profit. It's about giving you some element of predictability
or stability to your retirement income, right? You come from this place in your life where you may be at a salary
and you need to replace it. A stream of dividend income can be a very,
very similar feel to having a salary. It boosts your predictable
or stable sources of income. Maybe you have Social Security
or an annuity or a pension. Those are going to feel really good
because they're predictable, they're reliable, they come
with the regular frequency.

You know what day, what amount,
how they're taxed and when they hit. Dividend income can function
very similarly. You can set up automatic dividend sweeps
so that you get this dividends. The dividend income
swept to your account on a monthly or quarterly or an annual basis,
whatever is comfortable for you. But the benefit is you don't have
all this decision making friction where you have to decide, what do I sell,
How much do I sell, when do I sell it? What if the portfolio is down?
What if it's up? Which stocks do I sell? Right. Huge questions that need to be answered. The dividend income
is so frictionless because you don't have to answer
all those questions. It's also very simple to understand
how it will be taxed.

We can do a whole nother video on how dividend income is taxed,
but it's pretty straightforward. Most dividend income
that is what's called qualified dividends, will be taxed at long term
capital gains tax rates. So that as well can be favorable,
assuming that the dividend income is in a taxable brokerage account. If it's in a retirement account,
that's a different case. And we'll do a longer video on that. But without getting
into the weeds of that, the idea here is dividend income can be a super helpful, lubricating tool
if you're suffering from the permission to spend problem. And we have a whole playlist dedicated to some videos that go through
how to understand dividend income versus capital gains or appreciation
or principal pruning income sources in retirement.

You can watch that playlist up here, right up here, above my finger,
if you're interested. I highly recommend
at least understanding it. The idea of this video, in summary, is there's many ways to skin the cat
and create a retirement income. And one of the primary objectives
and you know, it is really important that we try to figure out how to maximize
or optimize your income in retirement. But also very important
is creating a similar feel, a comfort, a level of comfort and predictability to your income in retirement
so that you don't have this latent anxiety about how you're going
to get your money in retirement. So I hope you find this helpful. Again, I highly recommend
watching the longer, more robust video series
we've done on dividend income. It's also tied into concepts
about asset allocation and other things. Very interesting. We're giving away a
ree six part video series. It's our proprietary retirement
planning process that we call Navigating the Retirement
Risk Zone. In that video series,
we talk about everything from your distribution rate
required portfolio income, how you craft that income, what you track, how you measure your
financial plan success, and how you monitor
your plan on going.

It's a very long 90 minute video series. We're giving that away in
conjunction with our free, free access to our retirement
planning tool, right capital. You can get all of that for free by clicking
any form on our website, submitting your email address, and
we'll send you the entire series for free. No strings attached. If you're also feel called,
you're more than welcome to schedule a free consultation
with our Fee Only Fiduciary Financial Planning Team,
and we'll be very privileged to speak to you about your retirement
planning needs.

As always,
thank you for your time and attention. We hope you enjoyed the video
and see you in the next video..

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Retirement Planning Home

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How To Retire At 30 Living Off Investments

in order to live off of
your investments completely. And I know that the title of this video may sound crazy about retiring by 30, and there are a lot of people
out there selling a pipe dream of you can retire by 30
as long as you invest in this course, or go buy real estate and while that may work for some people I'm not here to sell you guys a course or to pitch you on any
kind of product like that. What we're going to
simply talk about here is how much money you need to have invested in order to live off of your investments and essentially not have
to work to earn your money.

And believe it or not, there's
actually countless people out there who have in fact
retired as early as 30 years old, by following this exact strategy
that I'm going to outline. So if this idea of retiring early and not having to work for your money is something that interests you. What I want to ask you
guys to do is go ahead and drop a like on this
video just show your support. I really do appreciate
that as it helps out with the algorithm and allows this video to get shared with more people. But what we're going to look
at in particular in this video is something called the 4% rule, and that essentially
shows you just how much money you need to have set aside, in order to live
off of your investments. Now you can in fact live off of different types of investments like real estate or the stock market for
example or a business that's providing income for you. But what we're going to use in this video as an example is a passive
stock market investment, and we'll show you exactly
how much money you need to have invested in order
to live off of that income.

So the goal here with this
strategy is to simply invest your money and have a large
amount of money invested and then you would
essentially be living off of the interest income or
the growth of that money without touching the principle. And as I'm sure you guys can imagine if you're not touching the principle or your initial investment, then your money could
foreseeably last forever. Now, the sooner you're able to retire is all based on how much
money you're able to save up and how little money you are
spending each and every month, and there's actually a
whole movement of people that are following this
exact strategy, and it's something out there called FIRE, and FIRE stands for financial
independence retire early. And there's a lot of
people who are doing blogs and videos and all kinds of
stuff about this concept, and there are countless
examples out there, of people who have retired
as early as 30 or even less.

By following these strategies. Alright guys so there's
basically three steps you have to follow in order to do this, and as I'm sure you can imagine, step number one is to be frugal or to spend as little money as possible, because ultimately what
you're looking to do is save and invest enough
money that the interest or the dividends, or
whatever the growth is pays for your monthly living expenses.

And as I'm sure you guys can guess if your monthly expenses
are $6,000 versus $3,000, you're going to need a
lot more money invested to cover those expenses. So being frugal and saving
as much money as possible is actually going to serve
two different purposes here. Well, number one, the
less that you're living on the more of your paycheck
you're able to save up, and the more of your paycheck
you're able to save up, the more you're able to
contribute to that freedom fund, which will eventually be paying for all of your living expenses. And then second of all by spending as little money as possible
every single month, you actually don't need
to save up as much money to potentially live off of the interest or the growth of your money.

And we're going to go over
those exact numbers right now. Alright guys so step number two
that you have to follow here is going to be a tough one, but that is going to be saving 50 to 70% of your take home income and again, if you're looking to
retire by 30 years old, let's say you want to work from 20 to 30, and then not work for
the rest of your life, you're going to have to take
some drastic actions here. And that is why you need to live off of a microscopic amount of money. And that's why step number
one is so important, by cutting down as much as possible on those monthly expenses. So people who are trying to do this, you're not going to see
them driving brand new cars, you're not going to see
them going on vacations, they're probably going to be,
you know, eating canned beans and doing campfires in the
backyard as summer entertainment. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but they are literally spending
as little money as possible, because they're focusing
on the long term picture of what they are trying to do.

So people who are following
this FIRE movement are often aiming to save 30
times their annual expenses, and that will allow them to
withdraw about 4% per year without basically touching that principle and that is where that
4% rule comes into play. And that is basically where you're able to draw from an account about 4% per year, and over a long period of
time based on the growth of that account and those investments, it shouldn't be chipping
away at the principle which should in theory
give you unlimited money. So what you're aiming
to do here is to lower your monthly expenses as much as possible. Figure out what it costs
you to live per year, multiply that by 30, and then
save up that amount of money by saving 50 to 70% of your
paycheck every single week or month, or however often
you are getting paid. Alright so now the question
you guys have been waiting for, just how much money do
you need to have saved up and invested to live off of that money following the 4% rule. Well if your annual expenses
are $20,000 per year, they would recommend having 30 times that amount of money saved and
invested, so $600,000.

If your annual expenses were $35,000, that number becomes 1.05 million. If you're somebody
spending $50,000 per year on your living expenses
you would need to have $1.5 million saved and invested,
and for the final figure here, if you spent $100,000 per
year on cars and housing and food and all of that,
you would need to have about $3 million to successfully
follow this strategy. So I'm sure this goes without saying guys, the best way to follow the strategy and to reach that retirement as quickly as possible is going to be
to keep your monthly expenses as low as possible. And just to put it in
perspective for you guys, every additional $100
that you spend per month, if you follow this is
an additional $36,000 you need to have set
aside in that freedom fund to support that $100 of monthly spending. So if you're serious
about this and you want to retire at 30, or even younger, you are spending literally as little money as humanly possible. Alright so the final step
to following this strategy is going to be passively
investing in the stock market. So most people following this strategy are actually following
the Warren Buffett style of passively investing in index funds.

And if you're not familiar,
index funds are basically a way for you to have diversified
exposure to the stock market. Where you're not essentially
picking what stocks are going to outperform,
you're just passively owning the entire market. So people following this strategy are not out there trying
to beat the market, they are not stock
traders or stock pickers they simply passively invest
in these low fee index funds, one of the most popular ones being VOO or the vanguard 500 fund. And essentially what you are doing, is buying a small piece of the 500 largest publicly traded companies out there, and all the different
dividends those companies pay are all collectively put together, and then you earn a quarterly
dividend from that ETF. And over the last hundred
years or so the stock market, on average, has returned
about eight to 10% per year. So if you were only drawing
4% from that account, based on historical data, you should never be
touching that principle over a long period of time.

And that is how you would
be able to live off of 30 times your annual income, if you save that money and invest it. Now that being said that
is the perfect segue into the sponsor for this
video which is Webull. So if you guys are
interested in getting started with investing in the stock market, this is a totally commission
free broker out there, meaning you're not paying
any fees to please trades with them and you can
purchase the Vanguard 500 ETF that we're talking about in this video right on that Webull platform, and not only that, they're
willing to give you up to two completely free stocks just for opening up an account with them. Number one, if you open the account, you're going to get a free
stock worth up to $250, and then when you fund the account, you'll get an additional
stock worth up to 1000.

So if you do the math there, that is two completely free stocks worth up to $1,250. Now I am affiliated with Webull, so I do earn a commission in the process if you use my link, but
if you guys are interested in grabbing two completely free stocks that is going to be down
in the description below. So finally, the last
thing I want to do here is to put all of this together, and go through a real
example of how you could in fact follow this strategy and even retire by 30. Now again, this is going to
require some very drastic saving because essentially you're trying to work for about 10 years of your life and then not have to work
for the rest of your life. So most people will never
be able to accomplish this, because of the amount of
sacrifice that is required, with that being said, let's go ahead and run
through the numbers now. So let's say you're earning
a salary of $75,000 per year from your job, and ideally,
you don't have any, you know school loans,
student loans, medical bills, or anything like that.

So you haven't gotten
sucked into the consumerism and you don't have like a brand new car so your expenses are as low as possible. And I know this sounds like
you know theoretical situation, but this was actually
about the same situation I was in, when I graduated
college I was 20 years old, now I was making about $68,000, so a little bit less, but I had no debts, I had no car payment,
and so I was somebody who could have potentially
followed this strategy. So after you pay your
taxes, your take home pay is going to be around $56,250. Now we know already in
order to pull this off, you need to save 50 to
70% of that take home pay in order to actually build up enough money to live off of that income. So we're going to assume
you are saving 70% of that take home pay. So you would need to live off of 30% of that post tax income, which
amounts to just over $16,000, or around $1400 per month. Now, is that possible? It absolutely is.

Is it easy? Absolutely not, you're certainly not going to be going out to the
bar and buying beers or going out to dinner,
you're probably going to be living in a tiny apartment driving an old car and eating at home for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. But if that type of
sacrifice is worth it to you for the long term picture, it is something you may
be willing to do yourself. So each year you would
be saving and investing a staggering amount of money, which is 70% of your take home pay
or just over a $39,000. And that is how you would
be able to pull this off, and assuming you kept that
cost of living the same at around $16,000, just over 16,000.

Your freedom number, or 30
times your annual expenses, would be just over $506,000. So, how long would it take
you to save up that money? Let's go ahead and answer that now. Well if you took that
$39,375 per year of money that you are saving and
invested in the stock market, earning 8% return, and
as we said, historically, it's an eight to 10% so we're going to go on the conservative side, well in 10 years at 8%
return career you would have $570,408.40, meaning you could then, if you kept those living
expenses the same, following that 4% rule, not have to work for your
money past that point. And just to circle back
guys what this really comes down to is the level
of sacrifice involved. Are you really willing to live
off of about $1400 per month, or do you want to have vacations and going out to get dinner
and things like that? So it's not people who are doing this that are out there traveling and dining it's people that are living
as frugal as possible and finding enjoyment
in other areas of life other than just, you know,
spending money on dining and things like that.

Now, is this a strategy I
would personally follow? Probably not because I
am one of those people that enjoys traveling, I enjoy dining, and I do spend a little bit
more than the average person, so my freedom number would be
multiple millions of dollars, but instead I follow the
strategy of earning as much as possible and saving a
lot of that earned money, and then eventually allowing
that to supplement my income by having that interest
or the growth of my money paying for a lot of
those things that I want. And believe it or not,
guys, there are honestly countless people out
there that have followed this exact strategy and
retired at 30 or less. One of the most well known people being Mr. Money Mustache, he has a whole blog where he documented this whole journey of becoming financially
independent and retiring early with both him and his wife.

So I'm going to link up his blog down in the description below
as well as a couple of other stories about
people who have followed this exact strategy and
retired at 30 or less. So that's going to wrap
up this video guys, thanks so much for watching. If you're new to this channel, make sure you subscribe and
hit that bell for notifications so you don't miss future videos, and I hope to see you in the next one..

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401K to Gold IRA Rollover

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The Difference Between Wealth Management and Asset Management

OK so now you've been at JP Morgan for about 25 years. Yes. So
and now you run one of the most important parts of JP Morgan which as I say is the asset and wealth management business for
people that aren't that familiar with wealth management. What actually is wealth management and how is that different than
asset management. Great question. The two are often used interchangeably. But but but there they have distinctions. Asset
management business is where we manage money on behalf of individuals institutions sovereign wealth funds pension funds.
We manage them in mutual funds. We manage them an ETF. We manage them in single stock single bonds hedge funds private equity and
the like. And that is the heart of the fiduciary business that we run here at JP Morgan.

Wealth management is that plus
understanding someone's entire balance sheet. So for the individuals where we manage money we also help them with their
mortgage. We help them with a loan that they might need. We help them with their basic credit card. And so wealth management is
trying to help someone with their entire life both their assets and their liabilities their planning their gifting the legacy
that they want to leave for their families.

The 529 plans they need to prepare to get their kids to go through college. And
it's a great it's a great insight into people's you know entire journey. Now many organizations like J.P. Morgan to have wealth
management businesses some are bigger than some are smaller. But basically you're managing money for and doing other things for
wealthy people more or less.

Is that fairly right for wealthy people. Although you know many of the successful wealth
management firms today have figured out how to take all of those great learnings for what they do with very wealthy people and
also package them for people who are have their first paycheck. And they want to be able to save a little bit of money or want
to have access to things that maybe they wouldn't normally have. And so we've been able to take things like what we do for a
super wealthy family package it into a bite size where you walk into a chase branch and you're able to get some of that some of
the same advice. And so it's it's I think it's opening up the world to be able to help people. And you know the most important
thing is to be able to save early. And if someone can be there to help you through that you know that's that's one of the most
important things. If you look at an average investment in the world if you just look over the past 20 years take a balanced
portfolio.

It's about six point four percent average annual return for people that generally manage money. The problem is
most individuals actual return is less than 3 percent. So it's less than half of that. Why. Because they make emotional
decisions when markets are one way or another and they get caught up in the hype of things. And so it's super important to
have that advice as early on as we can give it. And I think you know that that's the rewarding part about about this business is
being able to try to help people through all of those different journeys that they have..

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Retire Wealthy Home

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Retirement Planning Checklist

Presenter 1>> Welcome to the CalPERS video  Retirement Planning Checklist. In this session,   we’re going to discuss a list of things you should  be taking care of as you get ready for retirement. Before we get to the main presentation, let’s  take care of some housekeeping items. To   provide you with a future reference,  and make your note taking easier,   we’ve provided a presentation learning guide.  You’ll see the link to the learning guide in   the YouTube description box. Please note  that due the large number of participants,   although the chat feature is active, we won’t  be able to respond to member questions during   this presentation. If you have any  questions, please contact us directly. Here’s the agenda for today’s presentation. We’ll  start with things you’ll want to do one or more   years away from retirement, and gradually  work our way up to retirement and beyond. As we go through today’s presentation, we will  reference several CalPERS forms and publications   that you may be interested in, so here’s where you  can find them. On our homepage at CalPERS.ca.gov,   you’ll find the Forms & Publications column.  Select the View All link at the bottom of the   list to access a complete list of forms and  publications which are shown in alphabetical   order.

You can also filter by whether  you’re an active member or a retiree. One of the publications you’ll want to review  as you prepare for your retirement is Planning   Your Service Retirement, Publication 1.  It has a great deal of good information,   including a checklist similar to  what we’ll be reviewing here today. There is also a Retirement Planning Checklist  on our website. Select the Active Members tab,   then find the Resources column and select  the Retirement Planning Checklist link.

Let’s start by looking at what you need to do  about one or more years prior to your retirement. We encourage you to watch our Planning  Your Financial Future video series   available on the CalPERS YouTube  channel. Financial security helps   ensure you have enough money for  the retirement lifestyle you want. Use our Planning Your Financial Future  Checklist as a guide through this video series. For those who qualify for Social Security, visit  our Social Security and Your CalPERS Pension page   to learn how your Social Security benefits  may be affected by your CalPERS retirement. If you haven’t already done so,  sign up for a mySocial Security   account at www.ssa.gov/myaccount.  Here you can access your statement,   review estimates of future Social  Security retirement benefits, and more.

The service credit you earn is part of the  calculation for your retirement benefit.   Review your most recent account information in  myCalPERS to make sure your service credit is   accurate. You can also find a link to your most  recent Annual Member Statement here. If you are   a year or more away from retirement, use the  Retirement Estimate Calculator in your myCalPERS   account to estimate the amount of your pension  and begin determining when you want to retire. It’s important to be prepared  when you decide to take the big   step into retirement. To get answers  to most of your retirement questions,   the Planning Your Retirement class is a great one  to take if you are a year or even further from   retirement.

Sign into myCalPERS and select  Classes under the Education tab to enroll. If you think you may be eligible to purchase  service credit, the first thing you should   do is review the appropriate publication which  provides the types of service credit available,   eligibility for each type, and what is needed  to submit the request. The publications are   A Guide to Your CalPERS Service Credit  Purchase Options, or for military time,   the Military Service Credit Options publication.  The publications can be found on our website. To find the cost of any available  service credit purchases. First,   log in to myCalPERS, go to the Retirement  tab, select Service Credit Purchase,   followed by the Search for Purchase Options  button. You can also find the Service Credit   Purchase link in the service credit box on the  myCalPERS home page. Next, complete a series of   questions to help determine which service credit  purchase types you may be eligible for. Finally,   the system will return the cost for any  available service credit purchase options,   at which point you can begin the  purchase process if you choose to.

If you have a community property claim on your  retirement account because of a legal separation   or divorce, you must provide us with a copy of an  acceptable court order that resolves the claim.   It’s important to understand that a hold is placed  on your account and retirement benefits cannot   be paid until your community property issue  is resolved. However, you shouldn’t wait to   submit your application to retire. Waiting may  affect the retirement date and other benefits. If you’ve been awarded a separate nonmember  account, you may be eligible to retire and   receive a monthly benefit for this as well.  For more information, review our publication   A Guide to CalPERS Community Property. You  also may want to contact a financial planner   for assistance with coordinating your CalPERS  benefits with you overall retirement planning.   Please remember that CalPERS does not  provide financial planning services.  Next is nine months prior to retirement.

If  you're also a member of another California   retirement system other than CalPERS, there are  steps you need to take to ensure you receive all   the benefits you’ve earned from each system.  Reciprocity refers to an agreement between   CalPERS and many other California public  retirement systems that allow members to   move from one retirement system to another  within a specified time limit and possibly   retain some valuable benefit rights such as  your highest average pay in the calculation   of your retirement.

Read our publication, When You  Change Retirement Systems, for more information.  If you have Social Security or other non-CalPERS  income coming later after retirement, you might   want to temporarily increase your monthly  CalPERS income until those benefits begin.   See if a temporary annuity is right for you by  reviewing our temporary annuity publication.  Moving on to five to six months before you retire. You should become familiar with the information   needed to apply for retirement in the  publication A Guide to Completing Your   CalPERS Service Retirement Election  Application, which is Publication 43.  Begin to gather and make copies of the required  documents you’ll need, such as a marriage license,   or a birth certificate for a lifetime beneficiary.  Refer to the Service Retirement Election   Application for a complete list of required  documents. If you apply for retirement online,   you’ll be able to upload your documents into the  system. If you choose to mail in the documents,   only send us copies, never send originals.  Always include your Social Security number   or CalPERS ID on every document you submit.  If you don’t know your CalPERS ID number,   you can find it in your myCalPERS account under  the My Account tab in the Profile section.  Although an appointment isn’t required, if after  taking the Planning Your Retirement class, you   have specific questions about your own situation  that weren’t answered during the class, you can   schedule an appointment by logging on to your  myCalPERS account.

You’ll find the Appointments   link under the Education Resources tab. You determine how you want your taxes   withheld. We can’t offer tax advice so  you should check with your tax consultant   or attorney to find out about the taxability of  your overall retirement income. You can also find   more information about your federal taxes on the  Internal Revenue Service website at www.irs.gov.  For your California taxes, you can go to the  Franchise Tax Board website at www.ftb.ca.gov.   If you plan on moving out of state, you are not  required to pay California State taxes. However,   you should check with the state you’re moving to  find out what taxes they require and how they are   to be paid. You cannot have out-of-state  taxes taken out of your retirement check.  And then three to four months prior to retirement. You can apply for service retirement online,   in person, or by mail.

You can submit your  retirement application no more than 120 days   prior to your retirement. To file electronically,  log in to myCalPERS. Go to the Retirement tab,   select Apply for Retirement, and follow the  steps for submitting your application and   required documents online to CalPERS. We also have  a video on our YouTube channel titled Your Online   Service Retirement Application that will take you  through the steps for completing and submitting   your retirement application online.

There are  a number of benefits to filing for retirement   electronically. Easily and securely submit your  application at your convenience, 24 hours a day.   You can leave the online application and return  at any point to complete it. Prior to submission,   you can review and edit your information. You’ll  receive confirmation that your application has   been successfully submitted. You can upload  additional required documents online. And,   you can use the Electronic Signature to eliminate  the notary requirement for the member signature.  If you are unable or do not wish to complete  your Service Retirement application online,   you can submit the paper application at one  of our regional office or by mail. If you   bring your application to one of our Regional  Offices, both you and your spouse’s or domestic   partner's signatures can be witnessed by one of  our representatives. If you choose to mail it in,   you must have you and your spouse or domestic  partners signatures notarized.

If you’d like   assistance filling out your application,  you can enroll in our class Your Retirement   Application and Beyond. This class is  available online through your myCalPERS   account and is also taught by our regional  office team members in virtual classes,   and also in-person throughout the state. Find  the next available instructor-led class in your   area by logging in to your myCalPERS account  or by calling us. Be sure you keep a copy of   all forms and supporting documents for your  records and future reference. Apply timely.   Any delay in submitting your application could  result in a delay of your first retirement check.  If you have a deferred compensation plan such  as a 401K, 457, or 403b, check with your plan   administrator regarding distribution of your  funds. Contact your health benefits officer or   personnel office to determine your eligibility for  continuation of health, dental or vision coverage   into retirement. If applicable, check with your  credit union, employee organization, insurance   plan, or others to see if certain types of payroll  deductions can be continued into retirement.  So the next question is, what  happens after you retire?  As soon as your service retirement application  is received, CalPERS will generate an   Acknowledgment of Service Retirement letter.

This letter will confirm the retirement   date you selected, your date of birth, your  beneficiary’s date of birth, if applicable,   the retirement option you selected, age at  retirement, and the retirement formula along with   other valuable information. About two weeks prior  to your first check being issued, we’ll send you   a First Payment Acknowledgement letter providing  you with the date of your first retirement check,   the gross amount you can expect to receive,  and important income tax information. You’ll   also receive an Account Detail Information sheet  that provides what was included in your retirement   calculation based on the payroll and service  credit information posted in your account at the   time your retirement was calculated. Finally, if  you have CalPERS health coverage, you’ll receive   two letters. The first letter will notify you that  your health benefits as an active employee have   been cancelled, and the second letter notifies you  that your health coverage as a retiree has been   established. You should keep all these letters,  along with other CalPERS information you may have,   with your important financial papers.

If you expect to have any adjustments   to your retirement payment, you should allow  four to six months for all final payroll to   be processed for adjustments. An example of an  adjustment would be a change in service credit   or final compensation that was reported after  your initial benefit was calculated. If after   six months you haven’t received an adjustment  that you think you’re due, you should send us   a message through your myCalPERS account or give  us a call at 888 CalPERS, which is 888-225-7377.  You can find a list of mailing and direct deposit  dates on our website.

If you applied timely,   in most cases you should receive your first  retirement check around the first part of   the month following your retirement date. If  you did not retire on the first of the month,   your check will cover the period from your  retirement date to the end of the month.   After that, your check is mailed or direct  deposited around the first of the month.  This video will stay posted here on YouTube,  so you can come back and catch what you might   have missed. All our previous videos are also  available on our YouTube channel. You’ll also   have access to the link for the learning guide. Our presentation today was intended to provide   you information on some steps you should be taking  leading up to retirement. Please note that CalPERS   is governed by the Public Employees’ Retirement  Law. The information in this presentation is   general. The Retirement Law is complex and  subject to change. If there is a conflict   between the law and the information presented in  this presentation, all decisions will be based on   the law. Later today, you’ll receive an email  with a short evaluation. Please answer all the   questions as it’s important for us to get your  feedback to help us improve these presentations.   Thank you for taking time out of your day to  attend this presentation and have a great day.

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Why This Investment System Can Help Retirees Worry Less About Their Retirement Plan

I want to share an investment system for retirees to hopefully assist you as you're thinking about and planning for your retirement we're also going to look at how to prepare your retirement for the multiple potential potential economic Seasons that we may be headed into so we want to look at the multiple seasons and then the Easy System that's going to help lower taxes and then lower risk as well now if I haven't met you yet I'm Dave zoller and we help people plan for and Implement these retirement strategies really for a select number of people at streamline Financial that's our retirement planning firm but because we can't help everyone we want to share this with you as well so if you like retirement specific videos about one per week be sure to subscribe so in order to create a proper investment plan in system we want to make sure that we build out the retirement income plan first because without the income plan it's much harder to design the right investment strategy it's kind of like without the income plan it's like you're guessing at well 60 40 portfolio sounds good or you know May maybe this amount in the conservative bucket sounds reasonable you already know and and you feel that as you get close to retirement that goal of just more money isn't the the end-all goal that we should really be aiming for for retirement it's more about sustainability and certainty and then really the certainty of income and possibly less risk than before the last 30 years uh the things that you did to be successful with the financial side are going to look different than the next 20 or 30 years now if you need help defining the the income plan a little bit then look at the DIY retirement course below this video now once you do Define your goals for retirement and then the income needed to achieve those goals then creating the investment system becomes a lot easier and within the investment plan we really know that we can only control three things in all three things we actually want to minimize through this investment system the first thing we can minimize or reduce is how much tax you pay when investing we had a a client who was not a client of streamline Financial but of a tax firm coming to the the CPA firm in March to pick up his tax return and he was completely surprised that he had sixty thousand dollars of extra income on his tax return that he had to pay tax on right away before April 15th and it was due to the capital gains being recognized and other distributions within his investment account and he said but I didn't sell anything and the account didn't even go up that much last year and I got to pay tax on it but he was already in the highest tax bracket paying about close to 37 percent on short-term capital gains and dividends and interest so that was an unpleasant surprise and we see it happen more often than it should but this can really be avoided and here's two ways we can control tax so that we don't have to have that happen and really just control tax and pay less of it is the goal and I'll keep this at a high level but it'll get the the point across number one is the kinds of Investments that you own some are maybe funds or ETFs or individual uh equities or things like that the funds and ETFs they could pass on capital gains and and distributions to you each year without you even doing anything without you selling or or buying but it happens within the fund a lot of times now we would use funds and ETFs that are considered tax efficient so that our clients they can decide when to recognize gains rather than letting the fund company decide now the second way is by using a strategy that's called tlh each year there's many many fluctuations or big fluctuations that happen in an investment account and the strategy that we call tlh that allows our clients that's tax loss harvesting it allows them to sell an investment that may be down for part of the year and then move it into a very similar investment right away so that the investment strategy stays the same and they can actually take a write-off on that loss on their taxes that year now there's some rules around this again we're going high level but it offsets uh you know for that one client who are not a client but who had the big sixty thousand dollars of income he could have been offsetting those capital gains by doing tlh or tax loss harvesting that strategy has really saved hundreds and thousands of of dollars for clients over a period of years so on to the next thing that we can control in our investment plan and that's cost this one's easier but many advisors they don't do it because it ends up paying them less now since we're certified financial planner professionals we do follow the fiduciary standard and we're obligated to do what's best for our clients so tell me this if you had two Investments and they had the exact same strategy the same Returns the same risk and the same tax efficiency would you rather want the one that costs 0.05 percent per year or the one that costs 12 times more at point six percent well I know that answer is obvious and we'd go with a lower cost funds if it was all the same low-cost funds and ETFs that's how we can really help reduce the cost or that's how you can help reduce the cost in your investment plan because every basis point or part of a percentage that's saved in cost it's added to your return each year and this adds up to a lot over time now the last thing that we want to minimize and control is risk and we already talked about the flaws of investing solely based on on risk tolerance and when it comes to risk a lot of people think that term risk tolerance you know how much risk can we on a scale of one to ten where are we on the the risk factor but there's another way to look at risk in your investment strategy and like King Solomon we believe that there's a season for everything or like the if it was the bird song There's a season for everything and we also believe that there's four different seasons in investing and depending on what season we're in some Investments perform better than others and the Four Seasons are pull it up right now it's higher than expected inflation which we might be feeling but there's also a season that can be lower than expected or deflation and then there's higher than expected economic growth or lower than expected economic growth and the goal is reduce the risk in investing by making sure that we're prepared for each and every one of those potential Seasons because there are individual asset classes that tend to do well during each one of those seasons and we don't know nobody knows what's really going to happen you know people would would speculate and say oh it's going to be this or this or whatever might happen but we don't know for sure that's why we want to make sure we just have the asset classes in the right spots so that the income plan doesn't get impacted so the investment system combined with the income system clients don't have to worry about the movements in the market because they know they've got enough to weather any potential season I hope this has been helpful for you so far as you're thinking about your retirement if it was please subscribe or like this video so that hopefully other people can be helped as well and then I'll see you in the next one take care thank you

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The 4 phases of retirement | Dr. Riley Moynes | TEDxSurrey

Transcriber: Zsófia Herczeg
Reviewer: Peter Van de Ven Everyone says you have to get ready
to retire financially. And of course you do. But what they don’t tell you
is that you also have to get ready psychologically. Who knew? But it’s important
for a couple of reasons. First, 10,000 North Americans
will retire today and every day for the next 10 to 15 years. This is a retirement tsunami.

And when these folks come
crashing onto the beach, a lot of them are going to feel
like fish out of water without a clue as to what to expect. Secondly, it’s important
because there is a very good chance that you will live one third
of your life in retirement. So it’s important that you have
a heads up to the fact that there will be significant
psychological changes and challenges that come with it. I belong to a walking group
that meets early three mornings a week. Our primary goal is to put
10,000 steps on our Fitbits, and then we go for coffee
and cinnamon buns – (Laughter) more important. (Laughter) (Applause) So as we walk, we’ve gotten into the habit
of choosing a topic for discussion. And one day, the topic was, “How do you squeeze
all that juice out of retirement?” How's that for 7:00 in the morning? So we walk and we talk, and the next day,
we go on to the next topic.

But the question stayed with me because I was really having
some challenges with retirement. I was busy enough,
but I really didn’t feel that I was doing very much
that was significant or important. I was really struggling. I thought I had a pretty good idea of what success looked like
in a working career, but when it came to retirement,
it was fuzzier for me. So I decided to dig deeper. And what I discovered was
that much of the material on retirement focuses on the financial
and/or the estate side of things. And of course, they’re both important
but just not what I was looking for. So I interviewed dozens
and dozens of retirees, and I asked them the question, “How do you squeeze
all the juice out of retirement?” What I discovered
was that there is a framework that can help make sense of it all.

And that’s what I want
to share with you today. You see, there are four distinct phases that most of us move through
in retirement. And as you’ll see,
it’s not always a smooth ride. In the next few minutes, you’ll recognize
which phase you’re in if you’re retired, and if you’re not, you’ll have a better idea
of what to expect when that time comes. And best of all, you’ll know
that there is a phase four – the most gratifying,
satisfying of the four phases – and that’s where you can squeeze
all the juice out of retirement.

Phase one is the vacation phase,
and that’s just what it’s like. You wake up when you want,
you do what you want all day. And the best part
is that there is no set routine. For most people, phase one represents
their view of an ideal retirement. Relaxing, fun in the sun – freedom, baby. (Laughter) And for most folks, phase one
lasts for about a year or so, and then, strangely,
it begins to lose its luster. We begin to feel a bit bored. We actually miss our routine. Something in us seems to need one. And we ask ourselves, “Is that all there is to retirement?” Now when these thoughts and feelings
start to bubble up, you have already moved into phase two. Phase two is when we feel loss, and we feel lost. Phase two is when we lose the big five – significant losses
all associated with retirement. We lose that routine. We lose a sense of identity. We lose many of the relationships
that we had established at work. We lose a sense of purpose. And for some people,
there is a loss of power.

Now, we don’t see these things coming. We didn't see these losses coming in
because they happened all at once. It’s like, poof, gone. It’s traumatic. Phase two is also when we come
face to face with the three Ds: divorce, depression and decline – both physical and mental. The result of all of this is that we can feel
like we’ve been hit by a bus. You see, before we can
appreciate and enjoy some of the positive aspects
associated with phase three and four, you are going to, in phase two, feel fear, anxiety
and quite even depression.

That’s just the way it is. So buckle up and get ready. Fortunately, at some point,
most of us say to ourselves, “Hey, I can’t go on like this. I don’t want to spend the rest of my life, perhaps 30 years, feeling like this.” And when we do, we’ve turned the corner to phase three. Phase three is a time of trial and error. In phase three, we ask ourselves, “How can I make my life meaningful again? How can I contribute?” The answer often is to do things
that you love to do and do really well. But phase three can also deliver
some disappointment and failure. For example, I spent a couple of years
serving on a condo board until I finally got tired
of being yelled at.

(Laughter) You see, one year the board decided
that we were going to plant daffodils rather than the traditional daisies. (Laughter) And we got yelled at. Go figure. I thought about law school,
thinking perhaps of becoming a paralegal. And then I completed a program
on dispute resolution. It all went nowhere. I love to write. So I created a program
called “Getting started on your memoirs.” That program has met
with “limited success.” (Laughter) It’s been a rocky road for me too,
and I told you to buckle up. Now, I know all this can sound bad. But it’s really important to keep trying and experimenting
with different activities that’ll make you want
to get up in the morning again because if you don’t, there’s a real good chance
of slipping back into phase two, feeling like you’ve been hit by a bus.

And that is not a happy prospect. Not everyone breaks through to phase four, but those who do
are some of the happiest people I have ever met. Phase four is a time
to reinvent and rewire. But phase four involves
answering some tough questions too, like, “What’s the purpose here?
What’s my mission? How can I squeeze
all the juice out of retirement?” You see, it’s important that we find
activities that are meaningful to us and that give us a sense
of accomplishment. And my experience is that it almost always
involves service to others. Maybe it’s helping a charity
that you care about. Maybe you’ll be like the old coots. (Laughter) (Applause) Yeah. These folks took a booth
in the local farmers market and were prepared to give their advice
based on their vast years of experience to anyone who came by.

So one of their first visitors was a kid
who wanted help with his math homework (Laughter) on his tablet. (Laughter) They did the best they could. Or maybe you’ll be like my friend Bill. I met Bill a few years ago
in a 55 plus activity group. In the summer, we golf together
and walk together and bicycle together. And in the winter, we curl. But Bill had this idea that we should exercise
our brains as well. He believed that there was
a tremendous pool of expertise and experience in our group, and so he approached a number of folks and asked if they would volunteer to teach some of the things
that they love to do to others.

And almost invariably, they agreed. Bill himself taught two sessions, one on iPads and one on iPhones, because we were smart enough to know
that a number of our members had been given these things
as gifts at Christmas (Laughter) by their children, and that they barely knew
how to turn them on. The first year, we offered nine programs,
and there were 200 folks signed up. The next year, that number
expanded to 45 programs with over 700 folks participating. And the following year,
we offered over 90 programs and had 2100 registrations. Amazing. (Applause) That was Bill. Our members taught us
to play bridge and mahjong. They taught us to paint. They taught us to repair our bicycles. We tutored and mentored local school kids.

We set up English-as-a-second-language
programs for newcomers. We had book clubs. We had film clubs. We even had a few golf clubs. Exhausting but exhilarating. That’s what’s possible in phase four. And do you remember the five losses
that we talked about in phase two? The loss of our routine and identity and relationships and purpose and power? In phase four, these are all recovered. It is magic to see, magic. So, I urge you to enjoy
your vacation in phase one. (Laughter) Be prepared for the losses in phase two.

Experiment and try as many different
things as you can in phase three, and squeeze all the juice
out of retirement in phase four. (Applause).

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5 Best Fidelity Funds to Buy & Hold Forever

today we're going to talk about the five best fidelity funds to buy and hold forever hi if you're new to the channel my name is tay from financial tortoise where we learn to grow our wealth slow and steady in order to guide our conversation i'm going to use the three fund portfolio strategy to frame the fidelity funds i'm going to recommend in this video the three fund portfolio is one of the most popular do-it-yourself investment strategies and as the name implies it's made up of three simple funds most often an equities fund an international fund and a bond fund so all the funds i'm going to recommend today will fit into at least one of these slots the first fidelity fund you want to buy and hold forever is fidelity's u.s bond index fund fxnax it tracks the bloomberg barclays u.s aggregate bond index which is composed of investment-grade government bonds corporate bonds and mortgage-backed securities it holds approximately 8 400 bonds the top issuers are the u.s treasury or issuers of mortgage-backed securities like fannie mae and freddie mac it has an expense ratio of 0.025 percent which means if you have 10 000 invested in fidelity us bond index fund you're essentially paying 2 dollars and 50 cents for fidelity to manage this fund for you the fund started in 1990 and since then its average annual total return has been 5.33 percent so what are bonds and why do you need them in the simplest term bonds or loans when you buy bonds you're essentially loaning money to someone in this case to a company or a government agency and they're a very important addition to a well-constructed investment portfolio because of how different they are from stocks a good analogy i like to use to frame stocks versus bonds is this think of stocks as your core wealth building engine without it you aren't really going anywhere and bonds are like your brakes without it you could drive yourself off the road when you have bonds in your portfolio it helps to smooth out your investment ride because though they have lower returns they have less volatility during times of market crash where your stock investments can dip by 20 to 30 percent your bond investments will hold steady and ensure your right is so rocky so in order to help you smooth out your investment right you want to start adding them to your portfolio as you get closer to retirement age and if you're invested in fidelity consider fidelity u.s bond index fund as your core bond holding in your portfolio the second fidelity fund you want to buy and hold forever is fidelity total international index fund ftihx the fund tracks the msci all-country world index excluding the united states it represents approximately 5 000 international companies the top companies in this fund are made up of companies like taiwan semiconductor nestle and asml holdings it has an expense ratio of 0.06 percent which means that if you have 10 000 invested in ftihx you're essentially paying six dollars for fidelity to manage this fund for you the fund started in 2016 and since then its average annual total returns has been 5.99 what the fidelity total international index fund will do for you is provide you exposure to the international market outside the united states exposure to different countries sectors and even currencies and we can look at what happened to the japanese stock market as a lesson on why we might want to hold an international fund at the end of 1989 the japanese stock market's capitalized value was considered the largest in the world the nikkei 225 index the index of 225 largest publicly owned companies in japan reached an all-time high of close to 40 000.

Sadly 22 years later the nikkei was under 8 500 and to this day has yet to reach its all-time high again but satur is a japanese investor who failed to invest in international stocks outside of japan the us-based companies are currently the world leader in market capitalization and revenue but who can confidently say that will stay like that in the future it would be unfortunate but the same thing could happen to the u.s stock investors i personally still have strong confidence the u.s economy and u.s based companies as a whole but i also have to continuously check my assumptions financial writer larry swegel had a saying never treat the highly likely as certain and the highly unlikely as impossible as you get more comfortable with the international market you can start adding them to your portfolio and the fidelity total international index fund is a great option to represent your international holdings the third fidelity fund you want to buy and hold forever is fidelity zero total market index fund fzrox the fund tracks fidelity's in-house fidelity u.s total investable market index it represents approximately 2 700 u.s based companies the top holdings in this fund are apple microsoft and amazon it has an expense ratio of zero percent yes you heard me right zero dollars to invest in fidelity zero total market index fund thus the zero in its name the fund started in 2018 and since then its average annual total returns has been 11.82 the fidelity zero total market index fund is a total market index fund which means it tracks the total u.s stock market so this will be a great option as your core equities holding in your three fund portfolio however there are a couple things i do want to note with this fund especially in comparison to the two other equities options i'll cover here in a bit one is the fact that the index it is tracking is fidelity's in-house index fidelity u.s total investment market index this necessarily isn't a bad thing but there are actually more than 2 700 publicly traded companies in the united states than what this fund represents what this fund has done is exclude really small companies from its index in a big scheme of things this doesn't make that much of a difference in performance since the representation is based on market capitalization so the excluded companies would only represent maybe one percent or even less than that of the total fund but this is still something to note the total market here isn't quite the total market a second item to note with the fidelity zero total market index fund is the fact that you can't transfer your shares to another firm without selling your holdings and when you sell your holdings you have to pay taxes on your capital gains the fidelity zero total market index fund was designed with zero percent expense ratio in order to gain more customers so fidelity doesn't want you to move your money to a different firm and this limitation creates that barrier paying zero percent is nice but you won't understand that free comes with some strings attached but if you're planning to stay with fidelity for life fidelity zero total market index fund is a great equities fund to hold the fourth fidelity fund you want to buy and hold forever is fidelity total market index fund fskax the fund tracks the dow jones u.s total stock market index it represents approximately 4 000 u.s based companies the top holdings in the fund are apple microsoft and amazon essentially the same as fidelity zero total market index fund it has an expense ratio of 0.015 percent which means that if you had 10 000 invested in fidelity total market index fund you're essentially paying 1.50 for fidelity to manage this fund for you the fund started in 1997 and since then its average and annual total return has been 8.29 it's fidelity's original total market index fund prior to the introduction of fidelity zero total market index fund and fidelity total market index fund does exactly what his name implies invest in the total u.s stock market essentially every u.s based companies out there when it comes to investing in the stock market the key principle you want to abide by is diversification many people tend to think the only way to make money in the market is to beat the market by either selecting good stocks or good actively managed mutual funds unless you're a professional investor with hundreds of analysts working for you around the clock analysts who are constantly interviewing and researching companies and industries we can't win in the stock picking or fun picking game the odds are just stacked too high against the individual investor so the best strategy to beat wall street is to just track the market and at the lowest cost and fidelity total market index fund is a great fun to hold as your core equity is holding in your portfolio if you want more flexibility from the fidelity zero total market index fund the fifth fidelity fund you want to buy and hold forever is fidelity 500 index fund the fund tracks the s p 500 index which represents the 500 largest publicly traded companies in the united states at the time of this video there are exactly 508 publicly traded companies in this fund the top holdings in this fund are apple microsoft and amazon essentially the same as fidelity zero total market index fund and fidelity total market index fund not a surprise given the company representation is based on market capitalization and these big companies represent a good percentage of the market as a whole it has an expense ratio of 0.015 percent same as fidelity total market index fund so if you have ten thousand dollars invested in fidelity 500 index fund you're essentially paying dollar fifty for fidelity to manage the fund for you the fund is the oldest of the bunch it started in 1988 and since then its average annual total returns has been 10.66 percent when most people talk about the stock market they're most often referring to the standard and poor 500 not the total market index and the reason is because it's so much older it was created in 1926 when it began tracking 90 stocks and in 1957 the list expanded to 500 and for the past century it has been the go-to index to represent the stock market when you turn on any financial news reporters are always discussing how the s p 500 is up 50 points or down 100 points it essentially represents the 500 largest u.s corporations weighed by the value of the market capitalization and because it's weighted by market cap though there are approximately 4 000 publicly traded companies in the united states total these 500 stocks represent about 80 to 85 percent of market value of all u.s stocks and the weight within the index automatically adjusts based upon the changing stock prices to this day the s p 500 remains a standard to which professional mutual fund managers and investment firms compare their returns against so if you want your equities holding to match the performance the largest u.s stocks since they're essentially what moves the market hold fidelity 500 index fund as your core equities holding but i do want to say this whether you choose the fidelity 500 index fund the fidelity total market index fund or the fidelity zero total market index fund as your core equities holding you really can't go wrong with any one of them they're all great funds you just want to understand exactly what you're buying that's it guys i know i normally advocate for vanguard funds but sometimes you may not have the ability to choose the investment firm that you want because maybe your employer doesn't offer it that was the case for me and therefore most of my 401k is actually invested in fidelity fidelity is a great investment firm if you're looking to invest with them pick any of the five that i mentioned here and you can't go wrong if you'd like to learn more about the three fund portfolio and why you might want to consider it as your strategy check out my video here thank you guys for watching until next time all the best

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Wealth Transfer Prophecy Part 2. (The Wealth of the Wicked will be Given to the Righteous)

The Wealth of the Wicked will 
be Given to the Righteous  Wealth Transfer Prophecy, Part 2. This is the second part of the wealth transfer 
prophecy, as we mentioned in the first video,   God will use certain cryptocurrencies as 
instruments to transfer wealth to his people. The   first currencies that will be used in this phase 
are Luna Classic, Shiba Inu, and Bitcoin. LUNC   will rise first, and then SHIB, during the process 
BTC will fall and rise a couple of times as well. This will allow God's people to place limit 
orders, to buy BTC when the price falls to   almost $1 per Bitcoin. LUNC, SHIB, and BTC will 
be the first ones to provide opportunities,   due to the rises and falls these coins 
will have.

The prices to sell the coins   in the sell limit orders, are the prophetic 
prices made known by God through His prophets,   as well as by His people who received visions 
and dreams, granted by the outpouring of His   Holy Spirit. Once the first phase is 
finished, and after receiving profits, the prophecies point to buy the XRP and XLM 
coins, which will definitely be one of the   best investments to make, this is because 
in the future XRP will be backed by gold,   and XLM by silver. We should also point out, that 
the prophetic word emphasizes the need to invest   in real estate, agricultural land, goods, 
properties, houses, buildings, facilities,   etc, because in the future there will come 
a time known as crypto winter, a period in   which the entire global financial system, 
including cryptocurrencies, will be down. In other words, prices will fall to the 
ground, whose values will be too low,   to be able to buy the necessary food, 
which will be extremely expensive.  Once the crypto winter time is over, God will 
cause a large group of cryptocurrencies to rise   in price greatly, and they will reach a very high 
value in the future.

This is why God reveals to   his children that when the cryptocurrencies 
fall in value, whose prices will be very low   during the crypto winter time, then, it will be 
the right time to buy certain cryptocurrencies, whose values will be multiplied greatly in 
the future. At the moment, we do not know yet,   how many weeks, or months the coming future crypto 
winter period will last. For this reason, it is   essential to acquire agricultural fields and real 
estate, one to produce food, and the other as a   means to preserve profits. We remind you that all 
the links you will need to learn, key information,   prophetic prices, details, etc, will be in 
the description of the video.

God bless you..

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Do Withdrawal Rates Make Sense for Retirement?

As you plan your retirement, one of the biggest questions that comes up is how much can I afford to spend each year, and how can I be sure that I won't run out of money if I spend at a certain rate? And a lot of people look to a withdrawal rate to help them figure that out, in other words, they might say, Maybe I can spend 4% or 3%, and that way I would have enough money to last for the rest of my life, but I think there are a lot better ways to go about that, so I wanted to review those with you and point out some of the issues, and hopefully this way you see what you might be missing out on if you use a withdrawal rate and you don't have to waste any time obsessing over what exactly is the perfect rate…

I should mention that when I work with clients, we don't really even look at The withdrawal rate, it's something we can find after the fact, after we've done some more robust planning, but we don't start with a withdraw rate, it's just something we might check out of curiosity. As a quick refresher, a withdrawal rate is a way of looking at how much you're pulling out of your savings and investments that are earmarked for retirement. Perhaps. The most famous and the most notorious is the so called 4% rule, which is really more of a research finding, so it's not a rule that you would necessarily follow, although some people talk about it that way. It's based on some research that was done by Bill Bengen where he looked at how much could you withdraw from a portfolio over a typical 30 year retirement horizon, and let's say you have a 50 50 stock and bond portfolio.

Well, what it turned out was in his research at the time, you could take out 4% of your starting portfolio and adjust it for inflation and not run out of money in any of those worst case scenario historical periods that lasted 30 years. Now, since then, the rule has been debated and criticized and refined, and people talk about things like, what about the current environment? Or what if I diversify more? How might that look? And a lot of people just love or hate the 4% rule. Either way, I don't think it's the best way to go about it, but it's important to understand how it works. So just for simplicity's sake, let's use round numbers that are easy to multiply in our head, and we'll say, let's say you have 100,000, or for each 100,000 of savings that you have at retirement, we would say You can pull 4% of that out per year, and we start with your first year, 4% of 100,000 is 4,000. So that's your Year One withdrawal, now you're going to adjust this for inflation each year, so in the subsequent here, If inflation is anything above zero, you're going to pull out more than that initial 4000 and with each passing here, you're going to adjust your withdrawals, you continue to take those inflation adjusted withdrawals each year, regardless of what happens with the markets or how high inflation is for at least that's how it worked in the original research, so that's a basic overview of a withdrawal strategy like the 4% rule, but just as one example of something that might be missing in that analysis because it's pretty over simplified is taxes.

So for example, are you pulling money out of pre tax accounts that you're going to go income tags on like a traditional IRA, or are you pulling from taxable brokerage account or Roth accounts? They wouldn't necessarily have as much tax, so depending on where the money comes from, that 4000 or 40000, if you have a million dollars is going to offer you more spending money or less…

Now again, at a 40000 income, the taxes might not be too burdensome, but you need to know that there are probably some taxes due, so that's going to affect your budget, another issue with withdrawal rates or the 4% rule, for example, is that you might not spend as much as you could, and that might mean you're missing out on opportunities, making memories or doing things you want to do, or retiring at a later date then you need it to… Historically, there were quite a few runs where you ended up with a lot more money than you started out with, so we assume you started with 1 million dollars, you did a 4% withdrawal rate, and you had more than 2 million at the end of your life, 45% of the time, your money doubled over your retirement years, or in some cases, you might have died with more than 5 million.

That's great if your goal is to give money away at death, but if your goal is to maximize your enjoyment of your assets during life, then a simplified withdraw rate might not let you do that. This would be a perfect time to mention that past performance does not guarantee future results, and this is just a short video, so friendly reminder, please do a lot more research before you make any decisions, decide to take any action or not, because this stuff is really important. So please read that carefully, and by the way, I'm Justin Pritchard and I help people plan for retirement and invest for the future, so in the description below, you're going to find more resources on this topic, some discussions about withdrawal rates and some calculators that help you work with withdrawal rates, if you want to go that route and look at some alternatives, I think you'll find all of that helpful.

When you make a more robust income plan, you might have a withdrawal rate that varies over time, so it might start relatively high, perhaps you're withdrawing at a relatively high rate in the early years of retirement and spending down some assets, and that might be something you do as you wait for Social Security benefits to start, perhaps you're going to delay Social Security, maybe you want that time to make a little bit of room so that you can do Roth conversions or fill up some tax brackets, or maybe you're just trying to maximize what your Social Security benefit is, there's some really good reasons for doing this, for example, maybe there's going to be a survivor involved, and you want to make sure that that benefit is as high as possible because once one spouse dies, for example, the surviving spouse would be left with just one Social Security income, so perhaps it's important to have that be as high as possible, and here's an example of how that could look, so we can just check somebody's withdrawal rate.

And in this case, they aren't going to start Social Security until age 70, so they have started out with a relatively high rate here, then it drops off as other income sources kick in, they're in the low threes here for a while, and then when Long term care expenses come up, you're back to a high withdrawal. We can also see how it looks kind of visually with the asset levels, so again, at retirement here, maybe they're going to wait until 70, they're going to spend down some assets for a while, and then that curve… And by the way, this can be kind of nerve racking to watch your assets decrease over time, but if you have a plan in place and you've got those retirement income sources that can perhaps help you have the confidence they, again, here spending down assets until the Social Security and pension sources kick in, and then the withdrawal rate decreases dramatically, now, not everybody has a pension plus Social Security, that's actually going to help them increase their assets once those income sources kick in, but some people are fortunate, and that's what retirement looks like for them.

One other issue with withdrawal rates is that your spending can change over time, so as just one example, maybe you're going to buy a car periodically, and so that spikes your withdrawal rate every couple of years, so how do you deal with that? Or if we look at research on retiree spending, not everybody spends a flat inflation adjusted amount each year, in fact, for some retirees, you might have them spending at roughly inflation minus 1%, of course, that ignores those healthcare expenses which continue to increase at a pretty fast rate, probably faster than general inflation is a good way to model that, but other expenses might not increase, so if you own your home and you don't drive too much, for example, you might not be experiencing a lot of inflation. In fact, David Blanchett's research called the retirement spending smile actually shows retirees spending at roughly inflation minus 1%.

Or another way to look at this is your retirement spending stages. Sometimes people call this the go go, the slow go and the no go years. So right after you retire, you might be spending at a relatively high rate, these are your go go years, you've just finished working, you've saved all your life, you want to travel and have fun, and so you're going to do that while you're still young and healthy, but then you get into the slow go years, your spending might slow down a little bit, you've done a lot of the travel, you're spending more time just with friends or family or whatever the case may be, and then we get into the no go years where a lot of your leisure and entertainment recreation spending are going to decrease, but that healthcare spending ramps back up in the no go years, so if we're thinking of that in terms of withdrawal rates in the go go years, you're at a relatively high rate, slow go years, not quite as high, and the no go years, you're back into a relatively high rate, so I hope now you have a richer understanding of withdrawal rates.

If that helped, please leave a quick thumbs up. Thanks, and Take Care..

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