Category: Retirement Planning
401K Explained in தமிழ் (US Retirement Series – 1)
Jason 0 Comments Retire Wealthy Retirement Planning
This episode and next few episodes are going to be US specific episodes. All these US specific episodes will have US flag in their thumbnails. Indian audience, feel free to skip these episodes and save your time. US folks, there are 2 main retirement plans in USA. 1. 401K and 2. IRA. We will cover more in detail about IRA in another episode. In this episode, we will cover 401K in detail. Hi. My name is Vijay Mohan. You are watching – Investment Insights. 401K is a retirement plan offered thru employer.
We will not be able to open a 401K account just by ourself like a brokerage account. We can contribute to a 401K, only if it is offered through our employer. Almost all employers offer 401K plan. Very few small companies do not offer 401K. How much can we contribute to a 401K? Each employee can save up to $20,500 per year. If husband and wife both are working, both can contribute $20,500 each. People older than 50 can contribute more – $27,000/year. That is called as "Catch up contribution". Other than our contribution to 401K, many employers match up our contribution up to certain percentage. Let's say that an employer is matching up to 7%. If our salary is $100K, 7% of that would be $7,000. Let's say that we are contributing $20,500 to our 401k and maxing it out. Employer would have matched up the first $7,000 of that $20,500 and would have contributed that $7,000 to our 401K.
So in total, our contribution $20,500 + employer match up contribution $7,000 = $27,500 would have gone into our 401K account. Employer match of $7,000 would not come under the contribution limit of $20,500. This match is over that contribution limit. In this employer match, each employer has a catch called "Vesting Schedule". This vesting schedule defines when that extra amount matched up by the employer is going to actually credit in our account. Let's say that an employer has a vesting schedule of 2 years, then in that 2 years, the match up amount contributed by the employer will be in our account, but not vested. That means, if we leave the job within the 2 years of joining, then we will not get that matched up amount. But after 2 years, that matched up amount will be ours totally, even if we leave the job. Also, after that vesting period of 2 years, all money matched up by the employer will be vested (available) to us immediately. That means, there will not be any restriction over the matched up money after passing 2 years.
The 2 years I am referring here is just an example. It will be different for every employer. So what is the advantage to us from this 401K? The advantage is, we do not have to pay the tax on the amount we are contributing to 401K. But we should pay tax on withdrawal after retirement. What? No tax for the contributed money, but taxed on withdrawal? What benefit does that offer to us? Good question. To understand that, we should know about our tax bracket.
What we are seeing here is 2022 Married Filing Jointly tax bracket. Let's say that our family income is $120,000. We will come under 22% tax bracket. That does not mean that we will be paying 22% tax for the whole $120,000 we earned. First 20,000 of $120,000 will be taxed at 10%. Next 63,000 will be taxed at 12%. Money earned over that will be taxed at 22% tax. So the 22% tax is charged for the top most dollar we made in that year. This is called as Marginal Tax rate. If we add up all the taxes for individual brackets of 10%, 12% and 22%, that comes out to $17,634. This is 14.7% of our total income $120,000. So actually we are paying only 14.7% of our income as tax. This 14.7% is called "Effective Tax Rate". May confuse between marginal tax rate and effective tax rate. Hope it is clear now. So when we contribute $20,500 to our 401K, it comes out of our top most tax bracket. That means, the tax we saved from the contribution of $20,500 is 22%. $4510. If we withdraw the same $20,500 after our retirement, the tax rate for that would be 10%.
Tax saved for contribution is 22%, while money coming out is taxed at 10%. The difference is 12% in our favor. Or in other words, we save tax in marginal tax rate for contribution and we pay effective tax rate while withdrawal. We all know that effective tax rate will be always lower than the marginal tax rate. This is first advantage. Let's check out a sample calculation to understand the next advantage. Let's say that our family income is $120,000. Then federal marginal tax rate is 22%. Let's use Illinois state tax rate – 5%. For 401K contribution, not just the federal tax, we don't have to pay the state tax as well. Let's assume that our 401K will be growing at 8% growth rate.
We are maxing out our 401K contribution every year by contributing 20,500/year. Tax savings from this contribution is 27%. $5535. We are continuing to do this till our retirement for 25 years. By the end of 25 years, our 401K balance would have reached 1 million 600,000 dollars. The $5535 that we saved every year in tax alone would have grown into $437,000. The absolute tax saved is 5355 * 25 = $138,000. The growth from that savings is approximately $300,000. Or in other words, just because we did not pay (deferred) the tax of $138,000, the extra growth we got from that is $300,000. The growth of money by deferring (not paying the tax now) the taxes to pay later is called as "Tax deferred Compounding". This tax deferred compounding is 401K's second advantage. For these 2 advantages, we can contribute to 401K. We should. So far we have seen a regular pretax 401K. There are other flavors of 401K like Roth 401K and After tax 401K. We will dig deeper into that in the next episode. Thank You..
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Kevin O’Leary: Why Early Retirement Doesn’t Work
Jason 0 Comments Retire Wealthy Retirement Planning Tips for Retiree's
This whole idea of financial independence retire early doesn't work. Let me tell you why. It happened to me. On the sale of my
first company, I achieved great liquidity and I
thought to myself, "Hey. I'm 36. I can retire now." I retired for three years. I was bored out of my mind. Working is not
just about money. People don't understand this very
often until they stop working. Work defines who you are. It provides a place where
you're social with people. It gives you interaction with people
all day long in an interesting way. It even helps you live longer
and is very, very good for brain health. Staying stimulated is how people
live into their 90s. I'm not kidding. So when am I retiring? Never. Never. I don't know where I'm going
after I'm dead, but I'll be working when I get there too..
Retirement Planning in Your 50s and Beyond
Jason 0 Comments Retire Wealthy Retirement Planning Tips for Retiree's
Your 50s are an excellent time to get serious
about retirement planning, and that's because at this point in your life, you may have figured
a couple of things out. You might have a decent idea of where you
spend money, what your preferences are, the things you don't care for so much, and you
might also have some financial advantages at this point in life. Perhaps you've paid off a lot of debt maybe. If you had kids, they're out of the house
or almost independent. And you might be in your peak earnings years
because you have gained some expertise and some knowledge in whatever it is you do for
a living, and one big reason to get serious is you might have more money than you've ever
had before saved up so now it really counts. A 10 % loss in the markets, for example, hurts
a lot more than it did when you were 22 years old.
But whether you're just getting started saving
for retirement or you've been doing it for decades there are some important things that
come up in your 50s that can help you pave the way to a smoother retirement down the
road. The first thing to watch for is catch-up contributions,
and this is not the condiment, this is a catch-up contribution that allows you to put extra
into your retirement accounts each year once you reach age 50. The IRS sets maximum limits on how much you
can contribute to those accounts, but at 50, you can do a little bit extra and that helps
to boost what goes into those accounts each year for example in your 401k or 403 b or
governmental 457 you can put in an extra six thousand six hundred dollars per year as a
catch-up contribution on top of the max that you had back when you were 49 years old and
your knees didn't hurt as much.
For traditional and Roth IRAs, for 2022 that
number is a thousand dollars of extra catch-up contributions. Of course, this is assuming that you have
the cash flow to make the maximum contribution and put the catch-up contribution on top of
that, and if you don't, that's okay, it's not feasible for everybody, just do what you
can. But if you are really trying to maximize your
account balances at retirement, those catch ups are a powerful tool. The next thing to do is to look at your Social
Security and pension benefits. It's a good time to start getting a realistic
expectation of what you might get, and that's because you might assume that you're going
to get a lot more or a lot less, but it's really helpful to start figuring out how those
systems work and how much you can expect each month. If you're eligible for Social Security, you'll
want to go through your earnings history and make sure that that is accurate because if
any years are missing you may end up with a smaller monthly retirement benefit.
Your benefit is based on your 35 highest earnings
years, so you want to make sure that those good earning years are in there and that you
don't have any unnecessary zeros in your history. Keep in mind that you may be able to get some
retirement benefits from a former spouse or your current spouse, so if you're widowed
or divorced, for example, you want to research those potential benefits and you might also
be able to get income on your spouse's earnings record if you are still married and there,
are some strategies you'll want to look at as you go through that process. By the way, I'm Justin Pritchard, and i help
people plan for retirement and invest for the future. So, there will be some resources down in the
description below that cover this in more detail and give you some other pointers.
Another smart move is to manage your debts
or make a strategy for them. So, if you have consumer debts like credit
cards for example, you definitely want to plan to eliminate those debts and make sure
that your spending stays within your income limits so that you're not digging yourself
a hole during retirement or as you head towards retirement. But what about so-called "good debts" in retirement? For example, a mortgage. There's a lot of benefit to being debt-free
and not having a mortgage payment when you're in retirement a lot of people really focus
on getting rid of that loan before their retirement date but it's not necessarily the end of the
world to have a mortgage in retirement, and paying it off quickly out of your retirement
funds can cause some problems. As long as you can fit that monthly payment
into your income maybe that's your Social Security, pensions, and some withdrawals from
savings accounts, and you can manage that debt comfortably, then again, it's not the
end of the world, and remember that that loan payment will eventually go away someday which
frees up cash flow for other expenses maybe health care expenses later in life.
Speaking of expenses, how much are you going
to need to spend? Well, that's something to start figuring out
and there are a couple of different ways to do that this video that's going to pop up
above will give you some pointers on that but basically you can look at your spending
today and maybe adjust that for inflation or you might look at an income replacement
ratio and say maybe I just need 80 percent of what I'm earning now that might or might
not be right for you or you can target a certain level of spending such as $50 or $100,000
whatever the case may be, and with those numbers you can set a goal to start heading for once
you have an idea of your spending and your retirement income sources and your assets
then you can run some calculations and again we're setting your expectations so that you
know if you're on track or not and this can alert you to some potential shortfalls or
maybe let you know if you could retire earlier than maybe you expected there are a lot of
helpful online calculators out there they can do a decent job of getting you in the
ballpark but make sure you understand what their limitations might be so they don't necessarily
get super detailed and you might not be able to adjust all of the assumptions but again
you can get some basic ideas of if you're sort of close or if you're way off on what
you expected another good move in your 50s is to refine your investment strategy so up
to this point you may have been doing some great things to get you to the point where
you are you've built up some nice assets but if you've been using high risk strategies
maybe speculating maybe day trading that sort of thing it's time to ask yourself if that's
something that you want to continue doing at this stage in life it is difficult to consistently
get good results with those high risk approaches and you might have more to lose now than you
did previously.
I'm not saying you can't do it or definitely
don't do it but I would say proceed with extreme caution and maybe just say hey I've done a
good job up to this point maybe I'll reevaluate what I'm going to do going forward. At 50 it's time to start thinking about long-term
care if you haven't already been thinking about it there's a 70 percent chance that
you might need some type of long-term care and that might include everything from somebody
helping you out at home maybe this is a loved one assuming you have somebody at home who
is willing and able and remember it could be physically and emotionally difficult and
it might require expertise but it could include somebody helping you out at home who you know
or you going into a skilled nursing facility and paying those higher costs that are associated
with that higher level of care there are several ways to deal with the costs and that might
include a long-term care insurance policy but those are kind of problematic so definitely
look into them but consider some other alternatives as well maybe instead of maybe to supplement
or maybe you just go with insurance but some other options include saving up assets and
earmarking those for a long-term care event or maybe looking at your home equity as a
safety net to cover some of those big expenses that's not necessarily a fun way to spend
your time so one of the other things you can do is envision how you want your retirement
to unfold and this is a really important step that a lot of people skip it's important to
have something to do with yourself once you stop working you might have gotten a lot of
your social engagement a lot of your meaning and some of your identity out of your work
and you might want to not necessarily admit that but for a lot of people that's the case
it's easy to say that the main thing you're looking forward to in retirement is not going
to work but you probably want to have some ideas on how you're going to fill your time
and that way you're going to number one enjoy it more and number two there might be some
real benefits in terms of your mental and physical health if you are retiring to something
as opposed to just retiring from work, so ask yourself how will you fill your days? What are you most excited about and interested
in? What can you do to find some meaning and some
purpose during that time? And who might you spend time with, and what
are your plans for keeping your physical health as good as you can possibly keep it? So, I hope you found that helpful.
If you did, please leave a quick thumbs up,
thank you, and take care..
Mastering the FIRE Method: The Ultimate Guide to Early Retirement & Financial Independence
Jason 0 Comments Retire Wealthy Retirement Planning Tips for Retiree's
at some point of time you would have thought of retiring early or maybe you're thinking of it now and truth be told retirement is not about abandoning work there are very few who would say I won't work any further but what we yearn for is the freedom to operate to live life in the way we want and that brings us to the five moment now fire stands for financial Independence retirement it's a very catchy acronym and to put it in a nutshell it's a program that's designed around saving aggressively investing in high return instruments like equities and disciplined withdrawals which put together ensures you have enough money to cover your living expenses for the rest of your life and therefore retire early in this video I shall be explaining the concept in Greater details we look at the implementation steps some calculations and why fire needs to be a deliberate part of your financial life this might be a short video but it's a very powerful concept so let's begin the concept of fire was popularized in a book titled your money or your life it was built around self-sufficiency control over one's time moderate consumption and of course living life outside the nine to five for instance this guy Pete atney who is better known as Mr Money Mustache applied the fire principles which allowed him to retire from his job as a software engineer at the age of 30.
He's 48 now and he continues to live comfortably of his Investments after so many years and it's not just Pete there are writers bloggers people traveling the world software developers and even YouTubers who are using these principles to lead a more open life and have attached some articles and videos in the description to that effect some of these stories are really inspirational and it proves the fact that a little bit of planning on the financial side can have a profound impact on other aspects of one's life and in a very positive way now there are three parts one needs to address when implementing a fire strategy the first step is savings and the hardcore fire disciple is expected to save anywhere from 50 to 70 percent of one's monthly income this is of course easier said than done and probably where a lot of people make up their mind that this is not their cup of tea but from what I have read and what I've experienced the saving need not be always defined as a percentage and we can also work with absolute numbers which we'll see when I come to the calculations part now when we hear the word saving our first reaction or response is on reducing our expenses however money can also be saved by upping one's income which is what I suggest and it does make sense right I mean there is a limit to what one can save but income generation has a much longer Runway and in our case it can include taking a part-time job doing some consultancy work asking for a pay hike changing jobs for a better salary reskilling oneself or of course starting a side hustle which can be a mix of active and passive work in fact I have a friend in Bangalore who works as a data scientist from Monday to Friday and then on the weekends he takes classes on an edtech platform and also does some consultancy work to put it in numbers what was earlier a monthly saving of 50 000 Rupees is now easily over 2 lakhs a month and this guy has absolutely changed his life around by leveraging what he knows so he's on fire metaphorically speaking and the the fire strategy encourages us to find creative and better ways of increasing our savings rate the Second Step under the fire strategy is to spend wisely notice I didn't say don't spend I said spend wisely which means you need to identify what is an essential expense and what can be tagged as discretionary now people who practice Fire have a ton of helpful advice for us these include driving a good used car instead of a new one renting versus buying a house cooking at home rather than eating out track your daily expenses cancel unnecessary subscriptions Etc from what I've read these small steps can reduce your monthly expenses by up to 30 percent which if you choose to look at it differently is like getting a 30 incremented salary so you don't have to be stinky when it comes to your expenses but try to be a bit more rational about it and the third and final pillar in the fire system is the investment part now on a basic level the system requires advisors to invest as much money as you can and as early as possible so it's the principle of compounding at work here and this table here is a handy guide to how well your Corpus expands when you give it the necessary capital and a decent amount of time to grow now the fire method keeps this investing part ridiculously simple one you invest some money every month or as we call it you set up an sip a systematic investment plan and secondly this money is invested in a low cost Index Fund or ETF which in our case is either the nifty 50 or maybe a slightly broader Nifty 500 Index so essentially the focus here is to participate in the equity markets rather than actively trying to beat it which by my Reckoning should Fetchers and analyze return of 12 to 13 percent again the idea here is to maximize the returns which is why equities have been suggested but if that makes you a little uncomfortable then you can also settle for a mix of different asset classes which is something I explained in my video on asset allocation a few weeks back yet another investment you can make which is encouraged under the fire movement is on account of passive income dividends from stocks interest from your fixed deposits income from your blog your podcast YouTube channel monetization rental income are just some ways of making an Roi from physical or virtual assets now notice I have put this part under Investments and not income because passive income does require a lot of upfront work but once you do the hard work and you do it well one can expect a continuous stream of income over the next few years which will not only support your early retirement Ambitions but will also act as a safety net in fact there is something called an fi Ratio or the financial Independence ratio which largely means if your passive income is greater than your expenses then you're making some great progress on the path to financial Independence so to sum it up remember fire has three simple principles that you need to work on which is save more spend less and invest wisely if you're getting good value from this video then please do give this video a thumbs up and if you aren't a subscriber yet then do consider becoming one as I can then serve you videos as soon as they are released and also share with you some investing strategies tips and stories that are continually Post in the community section the original fire formula is based on the four percent rule which is the amount of saving you can safely withdraw every year without worrying that your money will run out for example let's say you are 29 years old and your monthly expenses are around 50 000 rupees if you want to retire at 40 then you have 11 years to accumulate a retirement fund so here's the math if household inflation is likely to grow by eight percent per annum then the 50 000 you spend now will rise to 1 lakh 16 000 rupees by the time you're 40.
So annually this comes to 14 lakh rupees and per the four percent rule it's 14 multiplied by 25 which means you need to accumulate a couples of three and a half crores to safely navigate through your retirement years or at least that's what the fire formula says now in my view there are some gaps with this four percent rule that I think we should all be aware of firstly this rule is okay for someone who has factored 25 maybe 30 years of retirement but if the retirement Horizon goes higher let's say 50 years for example then this formula starts getting a bit shaky and I've pinned a research study by Vanguard on this in the video's description secondly the four percent rule is a United States origination of the 1990s and has been tested on a historical basis when the yields on equities and Bonds were sufficiently high now we are not Americans and what works there will most likely not work for us which means there's an asset allocation and a market performance risk which needs to be accounted for and finally because each of us have our own preferences income goals saving patterns Etc I always felt it's important to have a customized fire implementation plan rather than picking something off the shelf which is why I created my own fire calculator which gives a clearer picture of how much I need to accumulate when can I idly retire how much withdrawals can I do on a monthly basis and at what point and in what circumstances my retirement money can run out so this obviously starts with the inputs and you need to type in your current age the age at which you want to retire and of course your life expectancy which I hope is strong and long then comes your current portfolio of Investments and this includes your mutual funds fds ppf EPF gold and other stuff and as a best practice kindly exclude the cost of the house where you will be staying post your retirement if you're still working then input the monthly savings and the annual increase you foresee input the expected returns from your investment the capital gain tax that can remain at 10 percent and finally have a view on how much will your expenses be in the first year of retirement and the expected household inflation rate and once we have these numbers keyed in as I have shown in this example the resulting output should clearly tell us three things one the amount of investment Corpus we need at the time of retirement which in this illustration is 2.2 crores at the age of 40.
Secondly we now have Clarity on how much can be spent on an early basis which starts from 12 lakhs so that's one lakh per month and it increases by eight percent every year and thirdly we get to know how sound or unsound this entire construct is like in this case our calculation shows that I'll run out of my money by the time I am 64 years old which is another way of saying that I need to rework my fire math which can include an increase in the monthly savings and the growth rate I can also consider extending my retirement age to a higher number let's say 45 years and finally I I can be a little careful with my expenses and instead of spending a lack of rupees maybe I can make do with 90 000. so there are many permutations and combinations you can look at but my suggestion is try to be a little conservative in your estimates especially when it comes to return on investment the inflation rate and the post retirement monthly expenses now for your benefit I have enclosed the link of this worksheet in the video's description it's a downloadable sheet all the formulas are open so feel free to change the numbers improve the formula if required add your own customization if it helps you but have a clear idea on when and where you need to be on the path to financial Independence so when I first heard and read about fire I was not a big fan of it I mean saving 50 to 7 20 percent of one salary is almost next to Impossible and I would have shut sharp had I not realized that as a method fire is quite flexible and can be used in many different ways so the calculator is one way and you can make a customized version of it but then there are more strategies there are more variants of the fire strategy and if you are interested then do read up on lean fire fat fire Coast fire and a few more of these in related articles that I've Linked In the video's description the point is and I myself realized a very late in life that many of us don't know when to retire how much is needed to retire which is why we continue working in a role or occupation that we don't enjoy much and that's where I think fire as a strategy might be the solution and it's just three things right increase your income and savings lower your expenses and get your Investments right so read up more about this concept in the Articles and websites I've added in the description and I sincerely hope you practice some sort of fire going forward if you found this video useful then do press the like button do subscribe to my channel share this video and I'll see you three days from now until then foreign
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Warren Buffett: Why Most People Should Invest In S&P 500 Index
Jason 0 Comments Retire Wealthy Retirement Planning
why have you advised your wife to invest in index funds after your death rather than berkshire hathaway i believe munger has cancelled his offspring to quote not be so dumb as to sell she she won't be she won't be selling any berkshire to buy the index funds all all of my berkshire every single share will go to philanthropy so that i don't even regard myself as owning berkshire you know basically it's it's committed and i've i so far about 40 percent has already been distributed so the question is somebody who is not an investment professional will be i hope reasonably elderly by the time that the uh estate gets settled and what is the best investment meaning one that there would be less worry of any kind connected with and less people coming around and saying why don't you sell this and do something else and all those things she's going to have more money than she needs and the big thing then you want is money not to be a problem and there will be no way that if she holds the s p of virtually no way absent something happened with weapons of mass destruction but virtually no way that she will shall have all the money that she possibly can use to have a little liquid money so that if stocks are down tremendously at some point they close the stock exchange for a while anything like that she'll still feel that she's got plenty of money and the object is not to maximize it doesn't make any difference whether the amount she gets doubles or triples or anything of the sort the important thing is that she never worries about money the rest of her life and i had an aunt katie here in omaha charlie knew well and worked for her husband as did i and she worked very hard all her life and had lived in a house she paid i think i don't know eight thousand dollars for 45th and hickory all her life and uh because she was in berkshire uh she ended up she lived in 97.
she ended up with you know a few hundred million and she would write me a letter every four or five months and she said dear warren you know i hate to bother you but am i going to run out of money and and i would i would write her back and i'd say dear katie it's a good question because if you live 986 years you're going to run out of money and and then about four or five months later she'd write me the same winner again and i i have seen there's no way in the world if you've got plenty of money that it should become a a minus in your life and there will be people if you've got a lot of money that come around with various suggestions for you sometimes well-meaning sometimes not so well-meaning so if you've got something that's certain to deliver you know it was all in berkshire they'd say well if warren was alive today you know he would be telling him to do this i i just don't want anybody to go through that and the s p will be a i think actually what i'm suggesting is what but a very high percentage of people should do something like that and i don't think they will have us i think there's a chance they won't have as much peace of mind if they own one stock and they've got neighbors and friends and relatives that are trying to do some like i say sometimes well-intentioned sometimes otherwise to do something else and so i think it's a policy that'll get a good result and it's likely to stick charlie well as becky said the wonders are different i i want them to hold the berkshire well i want to hold the berkshire too no i bet i mean i i i don't like them i recognize the logic of the fact that that s p algorithm is very hard to beat in a diversified portfolio of big companies it's all but impossible for most people but you know it's i'm just more comfortable with the berkshire well it's the family business yeah yeah but but it uh i've just i've seen too many people as they get older particularly being susceptible just having to listen to the arguments of people coming well if you're going to protect your heirs from the stupidity of others you may have some good system but i'm not much interested in that subject [Laughter] okay you
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Two-Pot Retirement System Explained by Old Mutual Corporate
Jason 0 Comments Retire Wealthy Retirement Planning Tips for Retiree's
Old Mutual 0:00
Very few South Africans reach the end of their working careers with
enough money saved for their retirement. To help retirement fund members preserve funds for their
retirement, National Treasury has proposed a new two-pot system for retirement funds. Your future
retirement fund contributions will be allocated to two components. One is a savings component, the
other is a retirement component. For this example, we'll use the pots to illustrate the concepts.
When the two-pot reforms go into effect, your retirement fund will value
your existing retirement savings, and will allocate this amount to its own pot,
which the industry calls the vested component. The current rules will still apply to your existing
retirement savings. This money will be subject to the existing rights of access and existing
withdrawal tax tables. Then, 10% of this pot, up to a maximum of R30,000 will be allocated
to your savings pot and will be available for you to withdraw. Going forward, 1/3 of your future
retirement contributions will go into the savings pot. This pot is designed to be your lump sum at
retirement. However, in the case of an emergency, you'll be able to withdraw the money from
your savings pot once every tax year.
This amount will be taxed to your marginal tax rate.
Remember, any money withdrawn from your savings component before retirement will reduce your lump
sum at retirement. The minimum withdrawal amount will be R2 000. The remaining two thirds of your
future retirement contributions will be allocated to the retirement pot. To preserve your savings,
you won't be allowed to access this money until you retire. At your retirement, you'll have to
use it to buy a pension or annuity. The aim of this is to provide you with an income during your
retirement years.
There are a few important things to note. The two-pot retirement system is to
be implemented on the 1st of September 2024. This will only affect your future retirement
contributions from this date. If enacted, the two-pot system will affect pension funds,
provident funds, retirement annuity funds, and preservation funds. Your existing retirement
savings will be subject to the old rules, so there's no need to panic. Provident fund members
over 55 will have the option to stay and continue contributing to all their retirement savings
to their existing provident pot. The two-pot system will give retirement fund members access
to a portion of their savings in an emergency. This savings component will also be available as
a lump sum payment at retirement if you don't make withdrawals. At the same time, the majority
of your time and savings will be preserved to provide you with an income during your retirement.
If you have any questions about these proposals, and how they might affect you or your retirement
fund, please reach out to Old Mutual.
.
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2 Ways to Estimate Retirement Spending
Jason 0 Comments Retire Wealthy Retirement Planning Tips for Retiree's
When you're planning for retirement, your spending level is one of the most important pieces of the puzzle, so how much should you plan to spend each year? That's going to dictate what we are withdrawing from your investments and how that needs to supplement your Social Security, pensions, and that sort of thing. So we're going to go over two methods that you can use to fairly easily figure out what your spending might look like in retirement. As you go through this exercise, it's important to remember that no method is perfect and it's impossible to predict the future, so we don't know what your grocery bill is going to be in 14 years, or how much you'll spend on electricity in 12 years, but what we can do is make some reasonable guesses and estimates and take action based on that, take a step forward and then learn a few things and then adjust if adjustments need to be made. So the two ways of figuring out your budget I want to talk about today are the top down and the bottom up approach, and there are a couple of other ways to estimate your retirement spending need as well.
So the replacement ratio is a pretty popular one, and that's where you say, I might need, let's say, 80% or some other percentage of my current income to spend in retirement, hopefully it's a relatively high number, but there… You're just basically saying, Well, I'm not going to save for retirement anymore, I'm not going to be paying payroll taxes, so maybe 80 90 or some other percentage is an appropriate amount, but we're going to go over again, top down and Bottom up, so starting with top down, the top down strategy focuses on the amount you spend and is not as concerned with the destination of those dollars or the specific costs that you pay, all that that information is important, and we're probably going to want it, but when we look at a top down approach, we say, What is all of the income minus the savings you do? And the answer is your costs or your total spending, so we don't know necessarily exactly where that money went, but it went somewhere…
Okay, so you had income, you save some money in some different places, the rest of it went away and it's not your money anymore, so that's the top down approach, so how do we figure out the income? The best place or the very top is to start with your pay stubs or your income tax returns, so those are going to capture even dollars that never hit your bank account, so for example, you can say, my total income is X, but I put money into my workplace plan, my 401k, that money is never going to show up in your bank account, you're not going to see it as a line item in your transactions where you saved money, but you did indeed save that money, you didn't spend it on something else, you can spend it later, so if we start with the income sources from a very high level, we're talking about your pay stubs and your tax returns, then we look at the savings, so this is going to be all of the additions you make to various accounts, so that's going to be your 401K, 403B, any bank savings accounts, HSAs, IRAS, any place that you're saving money for the future, this is going to get subtracted from that income number we came up with, so we have our income at a high level, we have the savings that we did, we subtract that, then the result is the total spending, and again, we're not totally concerned with exactly where the money went.
Although if there is a problem, a spending issue or something like that, then we definitely want to look closer. Naturally, there are pros and cons of any approach, so the advantages of this top down strategy are going to be that it's really easy and it gives you a big picture view, and it captures really pretty much everything, it might capture too much, so we'll talk about that in a second, but if you are not sure exactly where your money goes, but you're doing okay budget wise, and you want to keep the same lifestyle basically that you currently have, then this can be a decent way to estimate how much you might spend later in life, so we don't know how much of it went on vacation versus dining versus whatever, but you did spend the money somewhere, and that's really what we need to know is how much do you spend…
But this could capture some costs that you aren't going to have in retirement, so for example, your payroll taxes are going to be something that we want to think about if we're using this top down approach, because when you stop working, you'll no longer have those payroll taxes. Likewise, if you have a mortgage and you're doing monthly mortgage payments at some point that loan might go away and that won't be an expense for you in retirement, you would generally still have taxes and insurance, but you wouldn't have the principal and interest portion of your mortgage payment at some point down the road, hopefully.
So again, with top down, we start with this big picture view, income minus savings equals expenses, and then maybe we want to make some adjustments for certain things that are going to change over time, so here's a little example of how it looks visually, you've got your income of 100,000 you're over age 50, you're doing 27,000 into your 401K, you've got an IRA as well, there's another 7,000 that you're saving. And so your actual spending is no more than 66,000, and it's probably even less than that when we think about payroll taxes and maybe a couple of other things, so think about this as you evaluate what your costs might be, sometimes people think I make 100,000 right now, so I'm going to need a 100000 of income every year in retirement, and that's often not the case, and this is another way to illustrate that point, in fact, those are the types of exercises I often go through with clients, by the way, I'm Justin.
Pritchard, and I help people plan for retirement and invest for the future, so in the description below, there's going to be more on this topic, on your spending and just some other general retirement planning type resources that I think will be really helpful for you. So please check those out, and it's also a good time for a friendly reminder that this is just general information, it's a short video that can't possibly cover everything, so please check with some experts before you make some important decisions. Next, we have the bottom up approach, and so this is going to be what you might be more familiar with as just budgeting, so that's looking at every single expense and transaction and categorizing those costs and figuring out where exactly your money goes.
So you're really looking closely at the destination of each dollar that leaves your household, so you have a detailed view of what's happening, you can get this information from places like your credit card statement, so every time you spend money, there's an electronic record of it. You can categorize that and track it, your bank account is also probably a good place to look, so if you have those electronic automatic payments that go out of your bank account, maybe your mortgage or your insurance payments, that kind of thing… Those are going to be important to know about and include in your budget. Even a check register. So you might only write one or two checks a year these days, but they're probably big ones and they're probably important to know about, so make sure you're tracking that if it's a charitable contributions, or maybe you pay your property taxes once a year by check, that sort of thing, we need to know about those so that you can continue that type of spending.
This technique really relies on you being able to track and find and categorize that information, so it's probably a decent idea to just cross check this with a top down approach, so say, Well, here's what I think I spend based on my budget, based on all the things I tracked and looked at, but let's just see if that more or less adds up based on my income versus how much I put into different accounts, and are we in the ballpark? Just like with the top down approach, it's important to pay attention to any costs that might change over time. So if you are making mortgage payments again and you're going to have that loan paid off at some point, want to look at what's the principal and interest portion of that payment, and what's the taxes and insurance portion, and keep those separated, you know that you'll continue to pay taxes and insurance, but not the principal and interest at some point down the road.
Again, there are pros and cons to this, just like everything else, it's probably a decent way to go if you are very close to retirement because you're going to be spending in a similar way next year or two years from now, as you are today, so your current budget might be a nice reflection of what the next couple of years budget could look like, one of the drawbacks though, is that this can give you a false sense of precision, so you've got your list and your spreadsheet and you've got you exactly how much you paid for a bagel eight months ago, and you know exactly where your money is going, but you might be missing something, that's really the main risk is that you could be missing some important expenses, so that if you base your spending off of your spreadsheet or your list, it might not be nearly as accurate as you think it is.
So I hope you found that helpful. If you did, please leave a quick thumbs up. Thank you and take care..
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Step 1 of Retirement Success Plan: Investment and Portfolio Analysis
Jason 0 Comments Retire Wealthy Retirement Planning Tips for Retiree's
I'm giving you a choice of two Investments investment a and investment B both of them return 10 over the previous year which one would you rather have been invested [Music] oftentimes when I ask this question to a prospective client I'll get the response Troy it doesn't matter they both return 10 Give Me A or B but when it comes to retirement planning and this is why step one of the rrsp is so important the allocation meeting it's not about the return necessarily it's about how much risk did we have to take to get that return investment A and B both had a 10 percent return but this is just one outcome in an infinite set of possible outcomes remember these are two distinct Investments with different characteristics possibly different purposes so even though they return the same the question is how much risk did we take to earn this return are we being compensated enough from a reward standpoint based on the risk that we're taking so with a high degree of statistical confidence we could analyze and say investment a had a likely downside scenario of somewhere between five to fifteen percent if a different set of outcomes or circumstances occurred that's the risk profile but invest B had a possible downside of negative 20 to negative 40 percent now with that new bit of information which investment would you choose investment a or investment B all individual Investments or combination of Investments could be plotted somewhere along this chart this is what we call the efficient Frontier over here we have the return the expected return and over here we have the risk that we're taking so ideally we have Investments that are more to the left which represents lower risk and higher up the y-axis which represents higher return so if you own five different stocks that portfolio in and of itself could be plotted somewhere on this graph if you have one security let's say you're fully invested in your company stock you could plot it right here on this graph now if you have 20 or 30 or 50 different mutual funds or ETFs or individual stocks once again that set of Investments can be plotted somewhere on this graph so when we plot investment a and investment B on the graph here we can clearly see that they have a similar return profile but investment a has less risk so this makes it easier to identify as an investment that we would rather place our dollars now down here I have investment C could be a portfolio of stocks this could be maybe if you have a lot of money invested in your company stock but we clearly see that we're taking more risk without being rewarded for that risk that we're taking another way to think about this is think of your skills and the capability that you have in your current job or in your former job if you're if you're retired would you take a salary that was much much lower than Market in order to do that same job with those same responsibilities no you probably would not I know you would not that's what we're doing here with investment C essentially we are taking risk or taking on responsibilities in that example while not being compensated for it okay so think of these letters investment a investment being investment C this was the one we wanted to be in this is the one that we took a little bit more risk for the same return and over here we just don't want to be in I want to liken this to GPA grade point average because we're all pretty familiar with that either you from your schooling experience you have kids or grandkids an a investment or set of Investments kind of I put a in air quotes here that's the GPA so what we want to do with your portfolio in retirement is increase its GPA we want to reduce risk and increase expected return now that you have a good understanding of risk and return and how every set of Investments can be placed somewhere on that graph it's now important to tie that into retirement planning so the allocation determines how much income you can take how much money will be left later in life it determines how much tax you'll pay in retirement it can also impact your health care strategy or long-term care strategy and it definitely impacts your overall estate plan so those are the five steps of the RSP and this is why the allocation is so critical it's step one because it impacts everything else when you reach out to us for the first time all we do on that first visit is get to understand who you are and what's important to you we're going to gather some of the objective data under of course understand what your vision is for retirement your goals but the objective data is the current portfolio the financial statements the tax information how much we want to spend in retirement in between that first and the second visit we're going to go through an analysis to see where your portfolio falls on that Spectrum in order to understand if there's congruence between your willingness to take risk for the expected return that your portfolio can provide and where you currently are we first have to identify what is that willingness that you have to take on risk so we have to first understand your willingness to take risk so this is a pretty simple questionnaire here simply saying over the next six months you're comfortable risking this in order to make this potential return now this is what we call a symmetrical risk return profile we're essentially risking one dollar to earn one dollar but really what we're trying to identify here is what is your comfort zone on the downside because what we're going to try to do is create a portfolio that has an asymmetrical risk return profile so less risk to achieve more potential return so are you comfortable losing seven percent over the next six months in a recession or are you fine to let it stay invested and you believe long-term capital markets are going to do just fine so you're more comfortable in the short term possibly a 13 loss there's no right or wrong answer here but everyone's personal willingness to take risk is different so we have to identify that because if you have a portfolio that has too much risk that is the one thing that will absolutely be certain to blow up a long-term retirement plan if the market goes down you call us up panicking and say Troy I need to get out of the market I can't take it anymore well you most likely won't be in there for the rebound and all the planning that we've done up to that point can be significantly impacted because we were expecting the risk profile based on the conversations that we had to be structured properly and if it's not and the markets go down then we get out well all of a sudden everything is completely messed up so this is why your risk willingness is such an important concept because if we're putting a plan together we need to know that you're going to stick with it because markets will go down one other thing to point out here I like to focus on the dollar amount because percentages can be deceiving I had a client a long time ago or a prospective client come in and say Troy I'm comfortable losing about 10 percent he had two million dollars so I said okay if the market goes down and you lose 200 000 you're okay with that he said no I fire you instantly so there was a disconnect between the 10 percent and the two hundred thousand dollars so I like to talk about risk in terms of dollars because percentages seem just they don't really drill down into our willingness to take risk whereas if we focus on the dollar amount that hits home okay so this would be coming back on a second visit and we're looking at your actual portfolio and this is very similar to what we see someone maybe told us that they're they're comfortable let's say with about 50 stock but when we do the analysis what we often find is that there's more risk inside the portfolio but on top of there being more risk oftentimes it's not the most efficiently structured so we see down here we actually have bringing the GPA back a 3.1 so this means that it's not the most efficient from a risk-adjusted return standpoint means we're we're not where we want to be on that graph an annual range 3.42 so for taking this much risk we don't want to be rewarded with an annual range midpoint here of only 3.42 percent over the next six months now we also see with the potential risk and reward over the next six months there's a 95 percent probability that this portfolio to the downside could lose 16 percent over a six-month period and the upside is plus 19 so these are very very wide guard rails okay if we extrapolate that out over the course of one year we have a negative 32 percent and a plus 38 so most of our clients aren't comfortable losing potentially 38 percent in a single year so for this level of risk based on the questionnaire that we asked earlier and they come in around a 50 risk score this is not only too much risk inside the portfolio but it's really poorly constructed from an analytical standpoint and the guardrails are far too wide we're not being compensated for the risk that we're taking and that's what this GPA right here is telling us that's the analysis that we go through between the first and the second visit and that's often what we see it's not efficiently structured the portfolio possibly too much risk and oftentimes that GPA is a lower number meaning we're not being compensated with enough expected return for the risk that we're taking so in between that first and the second visit that's what our team is doing looking at your particular situation now once you become a client and we go through that allocation visit this is step one of the RSP what we're trying to do is to create a proposed portfolio that brings first and foremost the risk number in line with that questionnaire that we asked you before we're also trying to create some asymmetry in regards to the risk that we're taking in the expected Return of the set of Investments that we've put together so now what we've done is we've lowered the overall risk score of the portfolio to be more in line with the questions that we were asking in regards to that that slider that we had on the screen if you're not comfortable with potentially losing 19 percent in a six-month period we need to bring the risk score down in the portfolio so that's the first thing that we're trying to do the second thing is we're trying to create asymmetry here so you see this we're risking nine for the potential of 15.
This is over a six month period so we extrapolate that out over 12 months it's minus 18 for plus 30. that's asymmetry when it comes to the risk return profile additionally we've increased the GPA of the portfolio so the maximum according to the software is a 4.3 so this means we're being properly compensated for the risk that we're taking the expected return is the proper compensation for that risk now anything can happen Marcus can go up or down but what we've done is we've created an efficient portfolio that when markets are up or when markets are down our potential returns are in line with our willingness to take risks but also when we've tied this into your income plan tax plan and the rest of the RSP it's all creating a much more congruent financial planning experience also the expense ratio over here I don't know if you noticed before but we had an expense ratio in the mutual funds and that current portfolio in the proposed portfolio we've eliminated those fees so in summary here during the first visit we get to know where your willingness to take risk is in between the first and the second visit we're going through and doing an analysis of your current portfolio identifying the risk score see if there's any disconnect between your willingness to take risk in the actual risk inside your portfolio but then also looking at the potential return what is the GPA what is the expected return what is the Symmetry between these two once you become a client and we go through the allocation meeting here's where we look at the proposed portfolio where we get the risk number of the portfolio in a line with an alignment with your willingness to take risks try to increase the asymmetry between the risk and the potential return increase the GPA of the portfolio and increase the expected return now all of this is a shortened version of what the actual allocation visit looks like but it hopefully conveys how important this step is because it not only determines the amount of risk or the potential downside you could see to your values in retirement it also of course contributes to the potential return which then dominoes into your income for retirement the taxes the health care plan and also the estate strategy so step one allocation extremely critical when it comes to the retirement success plan this is why we do it first [Music] thank you
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The $65,000 Roth IRA Mistake To Avoid
Jason 0 Comments Retire Wealthy Retirement Planning
– I've seen too many of
you making some mistakes when it comes to investing
in your Roth IRA. One of them could cost you
$65,000 and the other one could cost you almost $500,000. You guys are seriously going
to make my beard turn more gray than it already is if
you don't knock it off. So let me show you what to watch out for, that way, you don't lose more money than you have to and
I can save a few bucks on hair dye for a couple more years. A Roth IRA is a self-directed
retirement account where you can contribute after
tax dollars to be invested. Since the money going in is taxed, the growth of your investments are not taxed and the money withdrawal from the account are never taxed either, as long as you don't try to pull out some of the money before the age of 59.5. There is no such thing
as a joint Roth IRA. So if you and your spouse
want to contribute to one, then you'll have to do it individually, hence the name Individual
Retirement Account.
If you both have enough
earned income separately, then you can each invest up to the $6500 limit for the year. If one of you works and the other doesn't, but you file a joint tax return, then the person working can, of course, contribute to a Roth IRA and
your spouse can contribute to a Spousal Roth IRA as well. Remember, these accounts are
owned by the individual person and on paper, not co-owned by both people. I want to try to encourage you to max out your Roth IRA every single year, if possible, because if you
don't do it for that year, then in the future you
cannot go back and contribute for a previous year once that time limit has passed. A Roth IRA is one of those accounts where I would bend over backwards to make sure that I can
put in the full amount allowed every single year.
In my order of operations for
what to do with your money, I have maxing out a Roth
IRA right after investing up to your employer match and HSA. That is how important
this type of account is. The good news with this
is that you actually have a timeframe of 16
months to contribute for each calendar year. So if we are in 2023
right now, then you have from January 1st, 2023, up until
when taxes need to be filed for that year to contribute,
which in this case, would be April 15th, 2024. That's how it is every single year, so ignore the actual dates in my example and pay more attention to the timeframes since the date taxes are due
will change by a few days from year to year. Most brokerages will ask
you which year you want to contribute to. For example, I personally
invest using M1 Finance, which you can check out down
in the description below, and also get a deposit bonus as well.
If I contributed to my Roth
IRA through them right now, then they would ask if I wanted the money to go towards 2022 or 2023, since at the time of recording this, we haven't hit the date
where taxes are due. This is great because it
gives you some extra time beyond the current year to
contribute Roth IRA money for that year. Before I tell you the next mistake that I see way too many people making, please help support my dog Molly by hitting that thumbs up
button and sharing this video with anyone you think it would help. Once you deposit money into your Roth IRA, there's one more extremely important step you need to do that I see a ton of people missing, and that is
actually investing the money.
I can't tell you how
many people I've talked to over the years who just put money into the account assuming
it would automatically grow, or knowing that they
needed to invest the money, but just forgetting to do
it because life happens, and things naturally slip out of our mind, only to check their account
balance years later, realizing that it hasn't grown in value because they didn't invest the money. Stop the nonsense here and
just set up auto investing within your investment account, and if you're waiting because you think that you can time the market
to buy in at a lower price, you can't, because it's
nearly impossible to do, so just to get the money
invested right now. If you know how you want to
invest the money, then great. If you don't, then I personally
like the two fund portfolio for people who are in
the accumulation phase of investing and in the
three fund portfolio for when you're closer to
retirement or in retirement.
I'll have a link to a
playlist then I made just for you where I teach you
about both of those portfolios down in the description below
and above my head as well. When you contribute to a Roth IRA, all of your money is not
locked up until 59.5. You can withdraw the
contributions that you've made before that age without paying a penalty, but you cannot withdraw any of
the gains within the account. For example, if you've contributed $6500 and the account has grown to $10,000, then you can withdraw
the $6500 contribution, but you cannot touch the $3500 gain without paying a penalty until 59.5. I've gotta interject for a second to give my personal opinion on this.
While withdrawing money
penalty-free is an option, I want to encourage you not to do this. To be brutally honest, I think that doing this
is one of the dumbest, most irresponsible, short-sighted
things that you can do. Withdrawing just $6500
worth of contributions would cost you $65,000 in
future investment growth. So when any money is
taken out of this account before retirement, think
about how it's actually going to cost you 7,800 Chipotle burritos, or 65 new Apple iPhones, or anything else that you would buy for that amount of money. And yes, I am fully aware
that you can do a penalty-free early withdrawal up to
$10,000 before the age of 59.5 for a first time home purchase. But this is just as stupid as withdrawing your contributions early
because that $10,000 is costing you over $100,000
in future investment growth when you pull that money out. Average annual home appreciation over the past 12 years has been 6.11%, and the US stock market
has returned 12.27%. Leave your money in the freaking Roth IRA and go earn that $10,000 that
you need to buy the home. Responsible investing takes time, like five or 10-plus years, and this money needs time to grow. The second you withdraw
any of your contributions, you are cutting down that tree before it even has a chance to grow fruit.
Once you withdraw
contributions from the past, you cannot replace that
money in the future. I get that emergencies happen in life, so that's why you need
to have money set aside in an emergency fund to
pay for those things. Do not, under 99.999% of circumstances, use your Roth IRA money for anything other than when you retire. One thing I see way too many people doing is investing in a
taxable brokerage account before they have their Roth
IRA maxed out for the year. This is a huge mistake from a tax savings
perspective for some of you because of how each account is taxed. With a Roth IRA, you invest with money
that's already been taxed, so the money can grow tax-free
and be withdrawn tax-free. With a taxable brokerage
account, you are paying taxes for the ongoing dividend
distributions every single year. Then you have to pay capital gains tax when you go to withdraw the money. Since the money within
a Roth IRA will grow and can be withdrawn tax-free, realistically, you want
this account to get as large as possible, but not at the expense of
your personal risk tolerance.
You should not take on
additional levels of risk by investing in more
risky, unprofitable stocks that random YouTubers have been pumping over the past few years or actively manage funds to
try to achieve higher returns. 99% of people, including
myself, cannot handle investing in something with a
high risk and potential, potential, high return. So don't even bother. The money in this account
is for retirement, so is it really worth it to risk that 60-year-old's financial wellbeing because you decided to gamble with their money right now? I doubt it.
Some of you might be over
the income limit to be able to contribute to a Roth IRA, or some of you will be at
that point in the future as your income grows. You can still contribute to a Roth IRA to take advantage of the tax-free growth by doing a backdoor Roth. To simply explain the process,
all you do is contribute to a traditional IRA. Do not invest the money yet. Then contact your brokerage
to have them convert the money to a Roth IRA. Now, I have done it with M1 Finance before and it was extremely easy. It only took I think two or three days for the money to get into my Roth IRA. Only do this if it makes sense based on your current tax rates
and future financial plans.
There's two things that you can do. if you are someone who thinks that you might be over the income limit, but you are not going to 100%
know until the year is over. Number one, you can
either wait until January of the following year,
like we talked about in one of the previous mistakes that
I mentioned, or number two, you can just contribute the
money to a traditional IRA, then do a backdoor Roth within
the year to get the money into the account so it can be invested. That way, if you are
over the income limit, you've already done the backdoor Roth. If you're under the income limit, no big deal 'cause you had to pay taxes on that money that was going
into the Roth IRA anyways. A question I get a lot is
whether or not you can contribute to a Roth IRA on different brokerages.
The simple answer is yes. This is how it would play out. You can contribute up to the max for one year
on, say, M1 Finance. Then you can decide to contribute up to the max on fidelity the next year. Then you can contribute up to the max on Vanguard the following year. So by the end of that third year, you would have three different Roth IRAs with three different brokerages, and there is no problem with that. You can take it one step further. If you decide, hey, out of these three, I actually like M1 finance
better than the other two, you can convert the
Roth IRAs with Fidelity and Vanguard into your
M1 Finance Roth IRA. You can also split up your contribution for the same year among
different brokerages. So if for this year you want
to say contribute $4,000 to an M1 Finance Roth IRA and the remaining $2,500
into a Fidelity Roth IRA, then you can do that without any problems.
The only thing you
cannot do is try to game the system by saying contributing $6500 into an M1 Finance Roth IRA and $6500 into a Roth IRA with another brokerage. You cannot exceed the maximum
amount allowed per year across all of your Roth IRAs on all of your brokerage accounts. Technically, you could do that since all of the brokerages aren't talking
to each other to keep track of what you are contributing, so you have to self-manage this. I would highly, highly recommend making sure
that you do not do this, whether it's on purpose or on accident. I don't know what the penalty is for this, but all I know is that you do
not want to get caught trying to defraud the government
in any way, shape, or form. Long-term investing is the name
of the game with a Roth IRA. This money is for when
you are in retirement, so make sure to take that into account when investing this money. No gambling it on stocks
that random YouTubers are promoting. I think the two or three fund portfolio is perfect for your Roth IRA, which you can learn more about
in these videos to your left.
There's a bunch of free stocks and resources down in
the description below to help with all of your personal finance and investing needs. I'll see you in the next one, friends, go..
Your Money Matters: How to plan for retirement if your job doesn’t offer a 401(k)
Jason 0 Comments Retire Wealthy Retirement Planning Tips for Retiree's
>> ALL RIGHT. THANKS SO MUCH FOR WELL, IN THE MIDDAY FIX, IF YOU'RE A NON-TRADITIONAL WORKER LIKE A FREELANCER, ENTREPRENEUR OR INFLUENCE ARE PLANNING FOR RETIREMENT IS A BIT MORE CHALLENGING THOSE JOBS TYPICALLY DON'T OFFER A 4, 1, K, BUT WE'VE GOT AN EXPERT HERE, RICHARD. SHE WAS A FINANCIAL LIFESTYLE EXPERT WITH FIRST CAPITAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT GROUP HERE WITH SOME TIPS ON HOW TO BUILD A RETIREMENT FUND. >> RICHARD, THANKS SO MUCH FOR JOINING US. IT'S GREAT TO HAVE YOU HERE. GOOD TO BE HERE. FOR HAVING ME. ABSOLUTELY. AND AS WE WERE JUST TALKING ABOUT, YOU KNOW, POST PANDEMIC, A LOT OF PEOPLE HAVE NOT GONE BACK TO THEIR TRADITIONAL JOBS AND ARE PROBABLY EXPERIENCING THE FREEDOM OF BEING THEIR OWN BOSS PER SE. BUT A LOT OF FUNDAMENTAL AND FOUNDATIONAL STRUCTURES THAT WERE IN PLACE TO HELP THEM SAVE ARE NOT THERE. SOME. CAN. HOW CAN WE HELP WELL, IT'S A BIG DEAL AND A LOT OF PEOPLE RIGHT NOW ARE STRUGGLING WITH THAT. >> AND THERE'S A THERE ARE ANSWERS TO IT. OBVIOUSLY, IF IF YOU'VE LEFT YOUR. PREVIOUS EMPLOYER, WHETHER BY CHOICE OR BY FORCE AND THERE'S MONEY ON THE TABLE.
I YEAR-OLD FOR ONE K ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS YOU WANT TO DO IS TAKE IT WITH YOU. MEAN, LITERALLY TAKE THE MONEY WITH YOU RIGHT BUT ROLL THAT YOUR OWN NEW. I WRITE YOU CAN DO THAT WITHOUT ANY COST OR ANY TAX LIABILITY AND THE COOL THING ABOUT IT IS IT KEEPS YOU IN THAT STRUCTURE, OK? BECAUSE YOU'VE GOT THE LIMITATIONS OF WHAT YOU CAN PUT IN PER YEAR, WHICH WAS SIMILAR TO WHEN YOU HAD A 4, ONE K AND YOUR OLD EMPLOYER.
BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS WHEN YOU IF YOU LEFT DURING THE PANDEMIC OR POST-PANDEMIC, WERE YOU AND YOU WALK AWAY FROM THAT ORGANIZATION AND TAKE THE MONEY WITH YOU BY ROLLING IT INTO A NEW HIGHER RATE OF YOUR OWN TO TRADITIONAL OR ROTH. IT DOESN'T MATTER. IT JUST DEPENDS ON THAT, SIR. THAT'S KIND OF A TAX QUESTION. AND SOME I RECOMMEND THAT A PERSON LOOK AT WHERE THEY ARE. THEY'RE GOING TO BE SELF EMPLOYED. THEN THEIR THEIR TAX BRACKETS CHANGING IMMEDIATELY. THEY'VE BEEN EMPLOYED AT A COMPANY AND NOW THEY'RE GOING TO BE SELF EMPLOYED. THEIR TAX BRACKETS AND ALL THAT WILL BE DIFFERENT. SO THEY NEED TO LOOK AT WHAT'S RIGHT FOR THEM.
AND THAT'S WHERE THE TECH SECTOR ADVICE COMES INTO PLAY. SO EITHER ONE AS GOOD AS BUT TO YOUR POINT EARLIER, AS LONG AS YOU'RE PUTTING SOME STRUCTURE BACK IN AND SAVING. OKAY. AND THEN WHAT SOMEONE WHO IS SELF EMPLOYED OR A BUSINESS OWNER AND THEY DON'T HAVE. >> ANY EMPLOYEE SITS JUST JUST THEM, THOUGH. WELL, THERE'S A COUPLE OF OPTIONS THAT CAN DO A SOLO FOR ONE K THAT CAN DO WHAT'S CALLED THE SEP. AND EXCEPT IT'S GOT A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT GUIDELINES. BUT IN THE CASES OF THE SOLO FOR ONE K I A STRONG ADVOCATE OF THAT. IF YOU HAVE A SMALL BUSINESS AND IT'S JUST YOU AND MAYBE A SPOUSE WHO MAY QUALIFY. OKAY. IT'S A GREAT TOOL TO USE ON THAT. DOES HAVE YOU KNOW, LIMITATIONS IN TERMS OF HOW MUCH YOU CAN PUT AWAY FOR YEAR. BUT AGAIN, IT GOES BACK TO WHAT YOU WERE SAYING BEFORE. IT'S ABOUT THE MUSCLE MEMORY OF HAVING THE STRUCTURE AND YOU CAN CREATE THOSE ON YOUR BY CREATING A SOLO FOR ONE K. AND WOULD YOU SAY THAT FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE SELF EMPLOYED IN OUT HERE DOING THEIR OWN THING.
IS IT STILL POSSIBLE SAVE AS MUCH AS YOU WOULD, EVEN IF YOU WERE A PART OF A TRADITIONAL, YOU KNOW, WORKSPACE. SO HERE'S WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU WORK FOR BIG COMPANIES FOREIGN ORGANIZATION, WGN OR ANY OTHERS. AND THERE'S A 4, ONE K PLANS PART OF YOUR RETIREMENT PLANNING. YOU'RE CONTRIBUTING AND THE COMPANY IN MOST CASES, THEY'RE MATCHING TO SOME EXTENT. THAT GOES AWAY. WHEN YOU LEAVE IN TERMS OF THE COMPANY MATCHING BECAUSE NOW YOU'RE THE SO THAT'S WHERE IT'S REALLY CRITICALLY IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE STILL CONTRIBUTING AS LONG AS YOU CAN TO THAT MAXIMUM THAT YOU CAN CONTRIBUTE.
SO YES, THE SIMPLE ANSWER IS THERE'S STILL THAT OPPORTUNITY. IN FACT, IN SOME CASES, IT'S EVEN BETTER BECAUSE YOU HAVE MORE CONTROL AND YOU CAN USE SOME OF THE BOTH TAX DEFERRED AND TAX FREE TOOLS TO GET TO THAT POINT DOWN THE ROAD, OK? AND THEN WHY IS IT SO IMPORTANT? AS WE'RE TALKING ABOUT RETIREMENT SAVINGS? YOU KNOW, OBVIOUSLY THE SOONER YOU START THE BETTER. BUT FOR SOMEONE WHO SAYS IT'S JUST TOO LATE FOR ME, YOU KNOW, WOULD YOU EVER SAY THAT TO ANYBODY IN NOW? TOO LATE BECAUSE THERE'S A COUPLE WAYS THAT THAT WE LOOK AT IT. ONE IS IT'S NEVER TOO LATE FOR YOU TO START BECAUSE YOU ALWAYS CAN TAKE ADVANTAGE OF SOME OF THE AFTER TAX TOOLS TO USE. BUT IT'S NEVER TOO LATE FOR THOSE WHO CARE ABOUT BECAUSE AT THE END OF THE DAY, SAVINGS IS PASSES CAME. SO IF YOU'RE PUTTING MONEY AWAY, SOMEBODY IS GOING TO BENEFIT FROM THAT. IT MAY NOT DIRECTLY BE YOU, BUT IT MAY BE PART OF YOUR LEGACY. WE HAVE JUST UNDER A MINUTE LEFT. RICHARD, IS THERE ANY LESS POINTS TO BITS THAT YOU WANT TO, YOU KNOW, JUST GET ACROSS THE FOLKS BEFORE WE WRAP UP, WE'RE GOING TO YOUR ORIGINAL QUESTION AND YOUR SECONDARY QUESTION ABOUT CAN YOU DO IT? ARE YOU TOO OLD? YOU'RE NEVER TOO OLD.
START WHERE YOU ARE. MAKE SURE THAT YOU BASE IT ON YOUR BUDGET SO THAT YOU CAN CONTINUE TO DO IT. SO LIKE WORKING OUT AND, YOU KNOW, WE ALL KNOW THIS. YOU GET TO THAT PLAN ON THE LOSE WEIGHT, GET BETTER SHAPE AND YOU TRY TO DO TOO MUCH AT ONE TIME BECAUSE YOU DIDN'T LOOK AT YOUR BUDGET OF YOUR TIME. IN THIS CASE WHEN IT COMES YOUR FINANCIAL BUDGET, THE SAME THING APPLIES, START SAVING. LOOK AT YOUR BUDGET, DETERMINE WHAT YOU CAN DO AND THEN BE ABLE TO STICK TO IT. THAT'S PROBABLY MY BIGGEST TIP IS JUST JUST SAFE. ALWAYS SAY MY WIFE AND I TALK ABOUT THIS ALL THE TIME. ARE WE SAVING WE AS AS PROFESSIONALS TO THE SAME THING. SO TO THE CONSUMER JUST START WHERE YOU ARE AND THEN BE ABLE TO BUILD AND GO FORWARD. ALL RIGHT. ONE OF MY MODELS PENNIES ADD UP, SAY SURE.
ALL RIGHT. YES, THANKS SO MUCH, RICHARD. WE APPRECIATE YOU BEING ON THE SHOW. THANK YOU. CAN GET MORE INFORMATION AT FIRST SEE IG DOT COM OR FOLLOW THEM ON SOCIAL MEDIA. AGAIN, RICHER THANK YOU SO MUCH. WE APPRECIATE .
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